At the end of the month I like to look back on what I’ve done and where I’ve been. On how I felt and what was on my mind. It turned out that my Instagram pictures actually give a pretty good impression. So, I decided to put them together in a blog post. Her is September.

Slovenia

This is the view from Javornik mountain, they build a lookout tower on top so you can actually see something. I love the forest, but when I hike up to a peak, I want a view! This one I like.

View from Javornik

I wanted to share a photo of Predjamski Grad, the end of my Via Alpina trek, but halfway a long boring macadam road down, I found a real nice hiking path to Sv. Lovrenc Gora, where I planned to camp. So, here’s the view from this sweet peak. And here is the start of the next part of my journey: the Via Dinarica Green Trail. Green Trail? Yes! For Slovenia I created a route that’s basically a combination of local (mountain) hiking trails, trailrun tracks, thematic hiking routes and a bit of my own previous hikes here. I’m super excited. Even though I skipped Predjama where I more or less ended last year, it feels like I’m “back”. Back in the Dinarides and back on “a” Via Dinarica.

Sveti Lovrenc Gora

Confession: hills make me happy too, especially running down the green grassy ones.
This is Slovenia, there’s a church on e-ve-ry hill And what’s also funny, people RUN up mostly before breakfast or after dinner, ring the church bell and run down. Really. It doesn’t matter that there’s a girl camping next to the church, that bell has to be ringed… Dobro jutro!

5K up

This is a lake. Cerkniško jezero. And I’m camping on the bottom. Beautiful!

Although I know that it takes at least four rainy days for the water to rise to a certain level and then at least four more days for the water to fill this enormous lake… I kind of couldn’t get the flood stream visions out if my mind.

The next day when I walked across the lake, I found traces of a bear. Yes, there are bears around here. Lots of them.

In the village on other side, a man showed me photos of two sheep that were killed last night. “This town is dangerous at night. Many bears.” I’m usually not afraid of bears, I believe that they won’t bother people, but I noticed that some people try to scare me.

Why?! If it’s not for the realistic fears, it’s the fantasy-flood-stream-fears that rub me from my sleep.

So please, let’s stop scaring each other! Stop the stupid (well meant) warnings that are just a product of your own fears rather than useful advice. And please stop comparing me with a sheep. Really.

Cerkniško jezero

I’m back in Loška Dolina, the green heart under mount Snežnik. It’s a relatively unknown region, but last year it kind of stole my heart. Some say it’s less developed, that they’re behind. I think they have just the right pace. It’s a region where people used to work on the land. Men in the forest, women in the garden. This changed over the years, big city jobs pay better, but still you can feel and see that people live differently. More relaxed. Old grannies are watering the flowers while the old men sitting together with a cup of something. They wave and smile with a heartwarming twinkle in their eyes.

Of course I’m generalising ánd romanticising, but hey, this is what I feel. And hey, look at this photo… Need to say more?

Vrhnika pri Ložu

My view for the next few days, hiking through Loški Potok and Kočevje.

Croatia

Next country, Croatia. I can’t believe it. I have to say it out loud. “I walked from Amsterdam all the way to Croatia.” And repeat it. “I walked from Amsterdam all the way to Croatia.” It feels amazing.

Little less amazing was the lady with the plastic gloves at the border checkpoint. For over an hour she’s been busy taking e-ve-ry item out of my backpack, asking me what it was. “Polenta, bouillon, oatmeal with cocos, paracetamol, E-reader, emergency blanket, solar charger, …” Welcome in Croatia

Another border

All of the sudden the summer stopped. Apparently it has been very hot and dry when I was in the Alps. Now it’s cold and wet. Just like last time when I was in Gorski Kotar. “You should come during the summer,” yes I know and I certainly will. Because it is beautiful here. And pretty wild. A bit rough though. I’m impressed by those forests, they’re endless. Again the trees starting to turn orange. And red and yellow. I’m all alone. I mean, no other hikers. It’s kind of magical. The clouds, the trees. So quiet.

Gorski Kotar

My home for tonight: Planinarska Kuća Javorovo Kosa, 1000 m

Planinarsko društvo: Višnjevica Ravna Gora

For now, the Via Dinarica Green Trail in Croatia has a few road sections. They suggest to take a bike, but I have no clue how to organise that ánd I have to admit that I don’t mind a few paved parts. You see a different side of the region. I mean the forest is great and the views from the mountains are brilliant, but walking through the villages in the valleys gives you a different perspective. In every possible way.

Karolinaroad from Ravna Gora to Vrbovsko

Look I got a real follower! Hiking five days with Elise through Croatia.

It’s a very very autumny day on a trail full of mushrooms. I like

“We’re almost there… No really, it can’t be far…” First hiking day together was a long and interesting one. According to my GPS we were almost there, according to the signpost it was still 3.45 hour! How on earth can 5K take almost 4 hours?! “I think we can do it in two.” I was wrong. Hiking turned into climbing. Although that’s the sport that brought us together, scrambling up slippery rocks at the end of the day is slightly different than rocking plastic in the gym. #justonemorestep

Hiking Kle

Sunny selfie series ️️ Klek, MalaKapel & Plitvice lakes – Via Dinarica Green Trail through Croatia

A perfect start of the the day: waiting for the sun to dry your tent while making coffee when your hiking buddy slowly wakes up (and takes a beautiful photo).

Sabljaci jezero

Some places are just undescribable beautiful. And undescribable popular. Everybody knows about the Plitvice lakes and everybody goes there. That was a reason for me not to go, plus that I’ve been there before. Until I realized that Elise, my hiking buddy who flew all the way from Amsterdam to Zagreb to join me for less than a week, had to see this place. We hiked 75 kilometers on the Via Dinarica Green Trail, saw mountains, forests, fields, rocks, rivers and even a lake, but no waterfalls… Since we were only 40km away from Plitvice National Park, we decided to put up our thumbs and got ourselves a ride. I’m so happy we did!

“Aren’t your feet getting wet?” Uhmm, yes they do. But they also get dry… Very fast. And no, I don’t have cold feet. It’s funny, my feet are often the warmest part of my body. In the evening when cooking a meal, I’m often wearing my downjacket, buff, gloves while my feet are still naked. Also, instead of wearing socks during cold nights, I have to open my sleeping bag at the bottom so I can put my feet outside. Strange, but true. Walking barefoot or barefootstyle makes you use every single muscle in your feet, which means they get strong, but also warm.

FiveFingers under water

Bosnia and Herzegovina

A rainy, but colourful start in Bosnia and Herzegovina. This is Bihać, from here I’m gonna find my way through BiH towards Sarajevo. It’s the last part of my journey, perhaps the most challenging one. For some stretches I found hiking trails, but in order to reach the beautiful spots, I have to hike along roads. This is no fun with the dogs and crazy cardrivers. I don’t know how I’m gonna do it, but I’m sure I’ll find my way.

Bihać umbrella lane

Wherever I come, first thing I get are a pair of slippers/pantoffels. Impossible to get cold feet over here

Papuča

Aren’t these flowers a bit late? Or early…

Štrbački Buk, people who stare at stuff

“Up and down, hiking in BiH, it’s a rollercoaster of impressions and emotions, I can hardly keep up with them. But when the ride is over, you want to stay for the next round.” I wrote that about a year ago and it is still true. I’m happy to scroll through my photos and see so many nice places I want to share, I can hardly choose. But I would like to show not only the shiny Instagrammable moments, I use Instagram to show my journey in stills. The whole journey.

And to be completely honest, I kind of have a hard time. The last week has been difficult in order to find my way. I sort of know where I want to go, but the problem is that I want to go on foot. That’s not a common thing to do, I know, but here it often seems impossible. Sometimes there’s only a big road and I can tell you, these are no fun. Smelly, noisy and boring, but most of all dangerous for hikers. My biggest fear are the dogs. And they know that, I know, but really, they’re super scary when they’re hanging around in groups, next to the road. I’m tired off being afraid. It’s only been one week and that’s not enough to give up. I believe it will get better, in a way I get used to it, I just need some time to adjust. AND I need to spend just as much time hiking in nature!

Roadhike

And when you think you had enough of it, of all of it, you find a place like this… The evening sun is my favourite, evening sun and a nice, quiet river is even better

Una river, Ripač

At the end of the month I like to look back on what I’ve done and where I’ve been. On how I felt and what was on my mind. It turned out that my Instagram pictures actually give a pretty good impression. So, I decided to put them together in a blog post. Here’s November where I stayed two weeks in Sarajevo before I took my bike for a ride to the Croatian coast. An exciting month full of social stuff, warm showers, blue skies and new opportunities. Scroll down to find out more!

Hiking in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Pretty busy for a peak without view. Humanitarian Tour to Crni Vrh on Igman.

˝Wild soul, warm heart˝ The Wild One & me hiking on Trebević

˝A walk in the woods˝, the abandoned Olympic bobsled track

One of the things I love about Sarajevo is that it’s surrounded by mountains. This is Trebević and that beauty in the back is Jahorina, isn’t it wonderful? And seriously, this is only a 3-4 hour hike from city centre. As a Dutchie I’m used to dríve twice as much before I could even get a glimpse of some peaks. So yeah, for me this is really special. And I love it 🙂

Sarajevo, A Concrete Gem Amidst Mighty Mountains

Biking in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Up up up to Bjelašnica. I’m back on the road again… By bike! After a 7 month hike I’m reunited with my old love. She’s gonna take me to Buna, Neum, the Croatian coast and hopefully back to Zagreb. No idea how long it’s going to take, no idea what the weather will be like, but we’re gonna give it a try 🙂

After a pretty late start in Sarajevo, I biked up up up until I found a nice place to camp. Oeff, I forgot how tough biking on a fully loaded bike is. And oeff, there are some muscles that I didn’t use for a long long time! During the night the temperature dropped below zero, but believe it or not, the morning sun is warm. I think I even got sunburned today! This is a view on Bjelašnica on the right and Visočica in front. One of my favorite mountains ánd favorite roads through the Bosnian mountains. Happy to be back!

Might be a brand new road, it’s a pain in the ass. Or legs. So much steeper than it seems. When you stop it’s difficult to get yourself rolling again. If you don’t stop, you don’t get to see the views behind… Bikers issues. This is my second day on the bike and I kind of realize that on a bicycle you really have to push through sometimes. It’s a completely different sport. I actually have to go much deeper than when I’m hiking. It’s interesting, it’s painful, but most of all it’s super, super beautiful. All of it.

And that snowy mountain is Treskavica. It’s one thing to cross all those mountains on foot, you get to feel and experience them. That’s what I did last year when I hiked the Via Dinarica White Trail. By bicycle on the other hand, you get to see them. You see how they are connected, how they form the landscape, but also how each mountain has its own character. It’s own shape with it’s own specific features. This is perhaps why I like to go back to places, why I like explore both by bike and on foot. It’s like a puzzle that slowly starts to show an image. I need time to see that and I love the process of this image that is growing, getting its shape. While growing, shaping and forming they nestle themselves in me. Those mountains. I’d like to get to know them, because the more time you spend with them, the more I realize I don’t know them at all.

Hello Herzegovina! Such a good idea to make a detour on the south. Although it can get windy, it’s much much warmer. It feels like spring!

˝Servis Bicikla˝ It’s funny, this bicycle sign reminds of home. It’s a universal sign, I know, but still it feels Dutch. #fietsen And my bike is alright, one flat tire, but no need for a service yet.

Biking the Via Dinarica Blue Trail in Croatia

Hello blue sky! After taking this photo I rolled down into the Cetina canyon, gorgeous, but terribly cold. Couldn’t believe the difference with just a few minutes before. Later, while my tent turned into an iglo, I scrolled down all the blue sky photos I took. Oeff, nature is strong. And oeff, I’m so thankful to experience it all.

Brrrreautiful Bivak

Biking Via Dinarica Blue Trail, Omiš. Ok, I have to admit that I want to walk up that white rocky mountain there, pitch my tent far away from the road and enjoy this powerful feeling of sleeping alone in the wild. Instead I take a super long lunchbreak at the pier, stare at my bike and give my feverish body what it needs. Warmth and rest. Not so bad neither.

Looking back, thinking feeling writing
In the middle of a thought…

Split, Croatia. This is where I decided that it was enough for now. A perfect moment to stop. For now.

It’s a way of living. I choose to do so. I live on the road. I choose the Dinarides to do so. ~~~~~ I’m on my way. There’s no conclusion, I’m rather in the middle of a thought. “What is your message?” a friend asked. “I don’t know.” There are loads of things I want to say, stories I want to tell, thoughts I want to share, places I want to show. But a message? It would be good if I had one. One clear message. “That’s okay, then you are the one that opens doors.” I think he’s right. I open doors. ~~~~~ One week ago I opened a new door. One for myself. Or actually I closed one, which made it possible to open new doors. I decided to give up my house in Amsterdam, stopped the rent and CHOOSE to keep on doing what I’ve been doing for the past 18 months. ~~~~~ Trekking around, Exploring the Balkans, hiking the Dinarides and sharing my stories with the virtual world. ~~~~~ It’s a way of living. I choose to do so. I live on the road. I choose the Dinarides to do so. ~~~~~ Photo credits to Kristel without Instagram.

Jeheej! I’m nominated for the Dutch Hiking Blog Award!
~~~~~
˝Last year Eva hiked many kilometers through the Dinaric Alps, on Vibram FiveFingers shoes. After that she went back to Amsterdam. Once she was there, she decided to continue with a new Adventure: walking back to the Balkans; ˝From Amsterdam to Sarajevo˝, again on FiveFinger shoes. While she’s hiking, she keeps a blog EVAdinarica Project where she shares her experiences in an open and honest way. Not only the beautiful side of the story, but also the difficult emotions and the things she struggles with. Especially that is what’s so special about her blog: it is honest and real.˝
~~~~~
No need to say that I’m so so honored…
~~~~~
Ok, so usually I don’t ask, but… sharing is caring. And voting too. So, if you like reading my stories and if you would like to support me keep on writing and hiking, please vote via the link in bio 🙂
~~~~~
Thanks a million!
~~~~~
Liefs,
Eva
~~~~~

Bosnia and Herzegovina

Kulen Vakuf view from castle Ostrovica

I treated myself to a backpackless hike, oh what a pleasure. The village down there is Kulen Vakuf. During the Ottoman empire there were two castles on each side of this little town. Now there are two ruins. Nevertheless worth a visit, even if only for the view.

I spend the night in a hunters lodge full of hunters who had to get up at 5.30. Luckily they made coffee for me as well ánd assured me that if I stayed on the road, there was no way anyone would shoot me. Maybe it sounds stupid when you look at the road on this picture, but in Kulen Vakuf I was told that it’s dangerous to get up here (all by myself), that there are bears, wolves, boars and…. hunters.

I listened to those people, appreciate their concerns, but went my own way. And look how beautiful it is up here. I’m so glad I went and I’m so glad I met those hunters, because they gave me the other side of the story. Because of them I had a totally fearless, super pleasant hike.

Bosnian coffee?

This is what happens if they think you’re from the US: Bosnian coffee, American size…

Bosanska kafa

And here we have the real Bosnian coffee, I like

Last few days I’ve seen many fishermen and I’m kind getting it, I think. Perhaps it’s not just about catching fish… I mean when you think it, a fisherman is often alone at the most beautiful, quiet places. They bring all they need and then spend a few hours or days there. Catching fish. Or not. Sounds good to me!

Bears on the road…

New old pants, new old shoes & some shit on the road. I prepared myself for the last part of my journey, for the winter. Therefore I picked up some warm clothes, a warm sleeping bag, my bearbell and a pair of shoes. New old shoes. And guess what happened… The temperature is going up! Good weather, non stop. The snow on Vlašić is probably melting, nevertheless, I’m prepared! No “bears” on the road for me. Just a some shit 

Čuperovica

From Jajce I followed a small road up through some small villages. Through the forest, through more villages, more forest until I found a good place to camp. The next day I wanted to hike from Čuperovica to Smet, a supposed to be beautiful hikingtrail. Only I had to reach the trailhead…

My GPS had no clue, there were no signposts and the people I met offered me a ride back to town. “No thanks, I’m going to the mountains. (Da, sama!!)” After one more hour through the forest, I reached an open field with a trail that lead me to this viewpoint. Oh yes, I’m back. Back in the mountains and look, that’s where I came from. Happy and proud that I found my way.

Smetovi mountain, this supposed to be beautiful hikingtrail IS super beautiful!

On my way up to Vlašić. This is really an amazing mountain. It’s sweet, it’s grassy, but there are cliffs and rocks as well. The city down there is Travnik, it should be worth visiting, but Vlašić changed my mind. I want mountains. I choose mountains. This is where I feel happy. So, I’m gonna cross this beauty and try to find my way to Sarajevo through the mountains instead of going all the way down.

Vlašić mountain, I like

There is this typical mist or smog which covers the valleys. I’m not sure if it’s actually pollution or a mountain-thing. Or a combination. It is beautiful from above, but I remember Sarajevo during the winter and that’s no fun for sure. Luckily there is a solution: go up into the mountains 

Lisac mountain, Good night 

For real

Tvrtkovac peak

Today I’m not alone, I got a guide (long story) to bring me to Tvrtkovac, a peak close to Pepelari where I camped. After this peak I had to do it on my own. Do another six hours on a sort of marked trail. Despite the very detailed (Bosnian) description of the route, I managed to loose the track within half an hour. Stupid thing is that I know exactly where I took a wrong turn, but I was too stubborn to go back. As a result, I scrambled down the mountain, arrived in a village which I was supposed to pass by from above and hiked 20 kilometers on macadam roads… BUT I made it to Ponijeri and I had a great day 

Meet Perun. I named this cute dog after the mountain we hiked. For one day Perun joined me, or actually followed me. First I thought he (or she) would go back at a certain point, but he didn’t. I went up, he went up. I walked through the snow, he did. I ate pita, he did. When I stopped to put on warmer clothes, I saw him shaking. He’s still young and I wasn’t sure if he could find the way back. I didn’t know what to do, so I kept on going. I crossed Perun mountain, he did.

When we arrived in Vareš, I realized that I couldn’t take him with me for the rest of my trip. I went to a gas station to warm up and think of what to do. Perun was not allowed to come in. Poor, cold Perun. I asked the guy who worked there what to do. He just laughed. He tried to chase Perun away. Perun kept on coming back. He locked Perun in the bathroom, Perun waited.

Ow and now comes the terrible part. The terrible part is that I left Perun in the cold. I left this cute little dog in the bathroom. Honestly when I think of it, I feel so cruel. It hurts. I know I wasn’t able to take care of him, but I also know that I didn’t do everything I could to help him.

Maybe he walked back. Maybe the guy from the gas station took him home… The next day I went back to the gas station, I had to check if Perun was still there. I had to ask the guy what happened after I left. Bad luck. The gas station was closed. Perun was gone.

The end. I’m sorry. I’m so so sorry.

Roman bridge on Orlja river

fter rain & snow comes sunshine. Oh yes. With a friend from Vareš I explored Zvijezda. My goal was to find a way to Olovo, his goal was to find this old Roman bridge. We both succeeded ánd had a great time!

Happy to find a džezva in an open mountain hut

It’s one of the many many many garbage dumps I came across. I simply don’t understand, especially because almost everyone I met praises selfgrown food. “No pesticides” or “alles natur“. Also, a lot of people go into the forest to pick mushrooms, rosehips, berries and so on. They make fantastic food, they make amazing food! How come that leaving or dumping garbage is not considered as a threat for their food? And how come that people are always blaming the “fucked up country” for all the mess instead of start picking up trash? I simply don’t understand. Perhaps I’m from a different world.

Actually the more I think of it, the more I realise that I’m exactly the same. As in, I complain but don’t take any responsibility. I don’t pick up trash neither. I don’t dump garbage, but I dump a photo and passively wait… Hoping that awareness will show up eventually.

This is how I like the night  laku noć

An obelisk surrounded by trees. Just one. In the middle of the forest.

So I forgot where exactly this beautiful peace of art was, sorry don’t remember the name of the village, but it is somewhere between Olovo and Bijambare… Also, I’m not sure how old this obelisk is. Is it from the Roman Empire or after. Oh dear, did you know that I actually studied history of art?!! Wait… Bakići? Yes! Anyways, there’s real nice, well marked hiking trail going up, definitely worth a little detour. (a Google search tells me that it’s probably from the 14th century), check this page if you want to find out more.

Made it!

By Tim Clancy and Kenan Muftic

Are we feeling nostalgic because another year has passed or are we excited to build on the accomplishments of last year? One thing is for sure, 2016 was the Via Dinarica’s first ‘official’ year in existence, with hikers from all over Europe and North America trekking the entire 1,260 km of the White Trial from Slovenia to Albania (or visa versa).

We had spoken about and pondered the Via Dinarica for years. We hiked, photographed, promoted, and explored the endless possibilities and potentials of this great concept. But we were still far from the Via Dinarica being a functional long distance trail. Well, until now. After months of marking and working out the small details and glitches on the trail, the White Trail has finally been defined and open to the world of hiking enthusiasts.

In Bosnia and Herzegovina we managed to complete and fully marked the White Trail from Busko to Trnovacko Lakes, extending from the Croatian border to the west all the way to the Montenegrin border to the east. We marked more than 180 km in BiH. We mapped 45 stages in five countries. We helped open four newly established family guesthouses.  All of the mountain huts along the most attractive stages of the BiH section got electricity supply through solar panels by donations from UNDP.

Having all of these achievements under our belts we were ready to officially open the White Trail in Bosnia and Herzegovina in June. But even with the ribbons cut and online maps uploaded, the trail was still not whole. It becomes so by being walked. So even though the trail opened in June, we had some impatient Via Dinarica fans who started their journey hiking from Slovenia in early May. To our team’s knowledge there were six trail blazers that completed entire trail in its first year. Many hikers trekked certain stages and even more hiked the more popular sections of the trail in all five countries.

Most enjoyed fully its unspoiled wilderness but some were also surprised at that the infrastructure (or lack of) didn’t meet their expectations. The truth is that some sections of stages are quite raw and can barely be considered as a trail. But this is the new thing for some people…and change here comes at a slower pace. There is undoubtedly a tremendous amount of work still to be done. There are many challenges in maintaining the older and new sections that make the Via Dinarica White Trail.

This, however, has sparked a regional debate in the hiking community. Just how developed should this trail become? Do we strive to be like other mega trails that are accessible and, in some cases, overdeveloped or do we preserve the raw and rugged beauty of some of the more remote parts of the trail? Isn’t the ultimate beauty of the Via Dinarica in its pristine wilderness found so near to traditional communities and urban areas? The answer is, we’ll let time decide on that.

For those who seeking comfort and good service there are guided tours already well promoted on adventure travel fairs and forums. Primarily due to this promotion, the Via Dinarica has been listed among the world’s top destinations by several well-known magazines. The Guardian included Green Visions’ tour among the 10 best holydays in Europe. The Vogue recommends the Mountain Travel Sobek journey along the Via Dinarica for honeymoon trip, but also as the one of 9 destinations every woman should visit in 2017. Lonely Planet has written several times about the Via Dinarica and the German Geo lists Via Dinarica as top trend destination. The most prestige recognition, however, was the inclusion of the Via Dinarica among the best travel destinations for 2017 by National Geographic Traveler.

What does that mean for us, the Via Dinarica folks working day in and day out to make this idea a reality? Perhaps nothing special but it simply confirms that the Dinaric Alps are one of the most beautiful mountains ranges in the world. It recognizes the efforts of the people and organizations striving to promote this region in a positive way. It is also a wake up call to the political establishment who have failed to recognize, protect it[1] and utilize this great development potential.

However, for all those involved in developing the Via Dinarica, whether being trail blazers, volunteers, business owners, state or local authorities, these recognitions by world’s famous magazines should be seen as a huge responsibility. If we boast to be among the best in the world, there is no room for excuses and shortfalls. It’s time to roll up our sleeves and go to work!

Let’s us embrace the new with this in mind and welcome hikers and others to the world’s best travel destination and wish them that 2017 be the best year ever!

[1] Government policies which support and foster sustainable and rural tourism development are crucial to adventure tourism market competitiveness because they safeguard the destination's natural, heritage and cultural resources and provide a positive investment climate for the private sector. Per ATDI Index, Bosnia and Herzegovina is ranked 194^th (third last country) in the world for its practices on sustainable development. 

Located 30 kilometers from Dubrovnik, 40 kilometers from Herceg Novi, and 80 kilometers from Kotor, Trebinje is another great place to base yourself for exploration of Croatia and Montenegro’s most famous coastal cities at more than half the price while simultaneously enjoying the hidden secrets of eastern Herzegovina of which there are many.

Taking time in Trebinje

Trebinje itself is probably one of the most pleasant towns I’ve spent time in Bosnia & Herzegovina and definitely not as frequented by tourists as it should be even though it’s only a couple of hours away from one of the country’s main hotspots, Mostar. It’s just super chill with an interesting Ottoman/Austrian/suburban mix of architecture and one of those places you may only plan to stay one or two nights, but instead stay for four because it’s so comfortable.
 

As it’s not overwhelmingly large so you can easily get around by foot everywhere and actually see all of the main sites in a couple of hours. Built right on the beautiful Trebišnjica, it has a small fortified old town from the early 18th century known as “Kastel” where you find many cultural points of interest such as the Museum of Herzegovina (located in the old Austrian army barracks), Osman Pasha’s Mosque and Sultan Ahmed’s Mosque. Kastel is also where most of the nightlife is at, especially during the summer months,  if you are looking for some action.
 

Just outside the west gate of Kastel is the Korzo, Trebinje’s main promenade/chill out area shaded by massive plane trees which have become one of the symbols of the city. There are about 150 around Trebinje and bring much needed relief from the 260+ sunny days the town enjoys each year. The main piazza just off the Korzo hosts the Trebinjska local market every day from 7am-3pm though on Saturdays is when you will find it the most hopping.
 

There is a lot more shade to be found down the road in Gradski Park and as well the Orthodox Church of the Holy Transfiguration of the Lord – apparently the prettiest church in the Republika Srpska. If hiding in the shade of the park isn’t cutting it, you can also head south towards the river to an awesome swimming pool made from the water of the Trebišnjica that is free to use and won’t turn your hair green.

Another symbol of Trebinje about a 10 minute stroll north along the Trebišnjica is the Ottoman-era Perović (Arslanagić) Bridge built in 1574 by Mehmed Pasha Sokolovic who is also responsible for the famous bridge on the Drina in Višegrad. The original location of this bridge was several kilometers away, but in the 1970s they painstakingly moved every single piece of it to its current location as it became submerged by water as a result of some hydropower projects.

Looking east from the bridge you can’t miss the Herzegovina Gracanica Monastery that sits atop Crkvina Hill. It’s quite a hike up and there are no public transportation options to get you there, but definitely worth spending a few euros on a cab if you are without your own car as it is for sure one of the best attractions in Trebinje.

You won’t find a nicer view of the city, particularly around sunset, and the icing on the cake is that within the complex there is a really sexy open-air cafe perfect for a sundowner or dinner. The monastery was built in honor of the city’s most famous poet, Jovan Ducic, whose remains were moved from the USA and buried there in 2000. If you’ve spent time in Kosovo before it may look familiar to you as it was modeled after the Gracanica Monastery just a few kilometers outside of Prishtina.

Whether on your way up or on your way down from Crkvina Hill, a cool place to stop if you like interesting libations and interesting people is the Trebinje outpost of Ekološko Gazdinstvo Vlačic. It’s one of the only places in the world I’ve ever seen fig rakija and the owner, Bozo Vlačic, is quite the entrepreneurial character who will no doubt fig you out with his growing assortment of products made from all parts of a fig tree (like jam, tea, candies, powder, etc). To find the exact location, just ask anyone in town – he is quite well-known and for good reason.

A unique monastery (and wine tasting) experience at Tvrdoš

Herzegovina is like heaven for wine lovers with its supreme growing conditions and unique varieties that aren’t found anywhere else outside of the Balkans. Though I haven’t visited any other wineries in the country, I think it is safe to assume the Tvrdoš Winery is by far one of the most unique as its wine cellars sit beneath one of the loveliest monasteries in the region, Tvrdoš Monastery, just four kilometers west of Trebinje.

First built in the 15th century on top of the foundations of a Roman church from the 4th century of which you can still see when you walk in, the church here is a real stunner with amazing fresco creations done by painters from Dubrovnik and contains some pretty interesting relics like the lady fingers of St. Jelena Anzujska. There is also a small wooden cross allegedly made out of the one used in Jesus’ crucification, but no word on how it made it to Herzegovina from Jerusalem.
 
The oldest wine cellar you can visit at the monastery is from the 16th century and they’ve done an amazing job putting together a seriously atmospheric area for tasting the wine. Two of the most notable varieties are Vranac (a typical Balkan red) and Žilavka (similar to a Riesling and known to be tough for its ability to grow on karst and rocky soil). Of course you can also get your rakija on with my personal favorite being the travarica made from a mixture of herbs like sage and rosemary.
 

Cycling in Tito’s tracks around Lastva and Jazina

Heading east from Trebinje towards the Montenegrin border is the small village of Lastva which is an excellent spot to do some cycling around for a lot of different reasons. Along the river there are more abandoned tracks from the old steam train that used to run through which is a very scenic trail and leads you towards lovely Jazina where you can take a break at some beautiful aquamarine swimming spots.

Nearby Jazina are the Imperial Vineyards designated by the royals of the Austro-Hungarian Empire as the best spot for growing Žilavka and from the top you have a wonderful view of where the Trebišnjica meets the Sušica river. Not a bad place to crack a bottle open and give a cheers to Mother Nature for creating such a lovely corner of the world.
Heading back towards Lastva, there is one more spot you can’t miss (assuming the construction guys let you have a gander) that in due time is sure to attract many more visitors once the renovations on it have been completed and that is Tito’s villa. Just one of the 100+ it seems he had scattered around the former Yugoslavia, there are plans for it to be turned into a hotel, restaurant and winery. My favorite feature is the tiny balcony they built just for his wife Jovanka and, needless to say, another special spot to enjoy some more Žilavka.

On the herb and honey trail in Ljubinje

Last but not least on my jaunt through eastern Herzegovina is sweet little Ljubinje. Since the Middle Ages this town about halfway between Mostar and Trebinje has been known for its herbs and honey with people from other parts of the region even going so far as keeping their bees and livestock in Ljubinje. For me it holds a special place in my heart as it also happens to be where one of my favorite restaurants in the Balkans is located.

Zvijezda is a super non-descript roadside dining establishment that kind of has a “middle of nowhere” feel and I really don’t think it can get more authentic kafana than this. I stopped there a couple of times with the groups from my Balkan tours that I did a while back and it was always good fun that usually involved an incredible amount of rakija, tasty food, and local hospitality. This time I had the honor of enjoying a meal with the owner, Slavica, who came all the way from Mostar to meet me and my mantourage (shout out to Marko from www.trebinjetravelguide.com and Micky from Ljubinje Municipality for guiding me through these parts) which was just lovely and I can’t wait to return.
 
Ljubinje actually has quite a bit of history for such a small town which I would have never expected, but much of it is still being organized, translated, and excavated so don’t expect to be blown away by the amount of things to do. Its most famous sight is probably the Orthodox Nativity of the Virgin Church partially built out of stećci and holds a couple of really old books (like almost 450 years old) as well as some ancient artifacts that have been dug up in the vicinity. Micky had heard that I liked wine so we also turned it into a nice place for tasting a local variety that was produced right across the street.

Hidden up in the hills is another church, The Church of Saint Prince Lazar, definitely worth checking out though in all honesty to find it without a guide or help from the municipality might be slightly tricky. It would be a wonderful spot to hike to and even stay some days as the air up there is probably some of the healthiest in the world. Stepping out of the car, my nose and lungs were immediately greeted by a variety of herbal scents and my liver another bottle of wine – this time some local Žilavka – compliments of good ol’ Micky who sure did his research before meeting me.

Buried here are the father and son of the Vlahovici family who were essentially like the Illiuminati of Herzegovina back in the 14th and 15th century days. It’s a complex family tree that involved marriages to some other VIPs in the region but the most important piece of information I got out of the whole story is the fact that when they opened one of the graves in 1864, they found a perfectly aged bottle of wine which leads me to believe they also liked to party. Something in the wine, herbs, and water…makes sense why so many Ljubinjites have gone on to be famous in Hollywood and beyond.

 
I think I fell a little bit in love with Trebinje and all there is to do in eastern Herzegovina. Herbegovina. Herzegowinea. Prior to my extended stay there, I had only ever passed by quickly enroute to Kotor or Dubrovnik like I think the majority does, but for those looking to spend a little less and live a little more then this is honestly where it’s at.
Special thanks to all the incredible characters who helped me have the best possible stay that I could and showed me that in many ways the south does it better. Any other attractions I missed in this corner of Herzegovina?

The project “Sustainable tourist development – From Herzegovina trails to Dubrovnik Elaphiti islands“  is financed by the European Union under the IPA CBC Programme Croatia – Bosnia and Herzegovina 2007 – 2013.

Just before Vermosh I leave the Via Dinarica and hike a marked trail to Lepushë. This is an easy and pretty OK hike with a climb through woods and over a not to high pass. Than it’s downhill, mostly over unpaved roads to Lepushë where there are some cafes and a wide variety of guesthouses (serving food with lot of calories). Breakfast at the guesthouse is served when the other guests are awake too, so the next day I get very a late start on a very warm day…

To my surprise this trail is marked; according to the information on my maps it’s supposed to be an unmarked trail. And it’s marked very clearly – thank you! It starts with a climb out of the town and soon, again, there’s no people (except from the occasional herder and some families living at the high plains) around anymore.

Than after the first climb it’s downhill until a crossing with the trail to the town of Nikc. Now it’s a uphill again and after this down into a amphitheater.  Here the trail is hiked less often, but the markings are looking bright and fresh. To my surprise, there are a couple living, in this pretty remote place. And to my second surprise there are two, hmm pretty dirty, ponds. The extra water on this warm day is a welcome treat. I talk a bit with the herder. He’s been checking out my moves and tells me there’s no water source after the pond for a long time (but he’d seen me taking water from it).

Than just before the climb up to the saddle the bright and shiny red and white markings disappear. I backtrack for a bit, but they are really gone. So I take a break and study the climb up (and try to remember the way I roughly want to hike). The hike isn’t too hard, it just takes extra time to stop and check, instead of following a trail and checking the maps.

I also know that the downhill part going to be more, ehmmm, interesting. At the saddle I take quick break and yes the downhill part is indeed going to be interesting, it’s steep, there’s not really a trail, there are some markings, there’s gravel, there’s more and endless downhill and there’s more and trail-less downhill.



Finally, when I’m way down, I reach a crossing with another, marked, trail, which leads me oh so fast to some lakes. This is a good starting point for tomorrow’s hike: up to Maja E Jezerce and then down to Theth. Here’s the download of the GPS track for hike from Lepushë to Theth.

Maja E Jezerce

The next day I’m really excited; hiking up to the top afterwards food and drinks in Theth. To me this sounds like a holiday! And the best thing? I get to leave most of my gear at the pass where I’ll return after hiking to the top.
Hiking with just some snacks, water and a jacket in my backpack feels like flying!
This part of the Via Dinarica is unmarked but the first part is an often used trail. Than after a meadow the climb to the top starts.  It starts with plenty of cairns. But they are going everywhere and are of no use.


All goes well until I reach about 2100 meters. All I see is rocks and nothing looking like a (sort of) trail. Finding my way up on my own, there are no other hikers around, and on my kind-of-worn-out trailrunners is going to take me a long time. And after I reach the top I have to go downhill too.  Nope, I’m not doing it. I turn around.

Maja E Jezerces: fail.
But then I think about ice cold soda pop, homemade food and maybe a shower? Oh now I’m back to flying downhill and it’s a long and exposed way down. At the start of the valley it’s back to civilization again; with a little shed where beer and soda is being sold. And for tired (or blistered?) hikers there’s a taxi. I also meet a group of Croatian hikers. They feed me delicious homemade speck and onion and fresh bread. Hmmmm

Theth

The trail between Valbone and Theth is a popular hike and in Theth it’s guesthouse, camping and hotel-galore. I just pick one that’s not far from tomorrows’  trail-head. The food in this hotel isn’t probably the best food to be found in Albania, but the rooms are nice and clean. My neighbor only eats a few small bites of here plate. Well, that leaves me a very welcome second serving.

More pictures on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a carbonated and sugary soda pop.
This blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

After a zero waiting for my border crossing permit in Adrijevica I hit the trail again. The hike from Trešnevik to katun Stavna goes over an road. It is a fast, but not very exciting hike. From the katun the hike gets way better! In about an hour the trail reaches an empty, Alpine landscape. Today’s misty and I get treated on dramatic scenery.

Due to a late start I do not see any other hikers, but there are a lot of names in the trail register on the pass. The mountains on the other side of the pass are less dry, here they are less rugged and green. Here are also a few springs (until the chapel where there’s a small lake).
The last few km’s to the chapel mostly go over an unpaved road. At the chapel there are stunning views and there is also a pick-nick table and a small lake just down the trail. Here I stayed for the night. It’s a bit windy at the saddle but I really liked the views, I ended up pitching my tarp as a sort of wind shield.



To Albania

Leaving the chapel is a fast hike over the same unpaved road, than a few km’s after a crossing the roads suddenly disappears. From here there’s no trail or signs until, way in, Albania.



For starters there are a few tracks to follow, but these disappear fast. Than there’s only the GPS track left. It starts fine through green hills but after a while it hits a steeper area. Here there are lots of loose rocks and if not than there’s slippery grass with hidden rocks beneath it. Be cautious out here, especially in wet conditions.



After this there’s a forest. Again with no trails or signs. While kind-of-sliding-downhill and doing some bushwhacking I arrived in Albania, according to the GPS. And after some more kind-of-sliding-downhill and crossing a small stream I hit an unpaved road again. In the first village the marking returns and than it is a fast hike to Vermosh.


Albania Alternate
Just before Vermosh I leave the Via Dinarica. While turning on my phone in Montenegro, checking on news about the permit I got a message that my data bundle had expired. No data, no balance, no shop at the mountain, no internet, no permit… 

So I’m hiking plan B.; the Albania Alternate. Meaning no more border crossings in this area. I printed hiking maps at the hotel in Andrijevica and even found Alternate GPS tracks online. With a little detour and if the weather is OK I will climb Maja E Jezerce, the highest peak of the Dinaric Alps. Even not really enjoying heights I  cannot skip this one, can’t I?

More pictures on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a carbonated and sugary soda pop.
This blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

I’m happy leaving crazy, busy Žabljak, there’s too much going on here and too many people to make it a relaxed trail town. Just a few hundred meters outside of town it’s quiet again. Oemph… Pffft…The hike to Njegovuđa is about 9 kilometers and it follows partly a paved and partly an unpaved road which leads along small houses and farmland.

In Njegovuđa just a bit off trail, a surprise waits; here there are a café (also serving food) and a convenient store! After a fast pits stop,  I had a late start and there’s a storm building, I hit the trail again. While hiking in the woods, just after passing the lake, it starts raining. Since the rains are fierce here I set up my tarp and seek shelter for the next 1.5 hour.

After the forest the trail really gets nice and it stays so all the way to Mojkovac. It actually surprises me. I didn’t prepare this stage and thought it would be way less interesting and wild.

After a few more hours of hiking it starts raining again and I pitch my tarp somewhere in a field.


The trail sometimes is a proper trail, it sometimes follows an unpaved road and sometimes there’s just a few sings hiding in the grass.

A very close encounter

After Zabjsko jezero the trail leads through a forest. Because of the lots-of-mud/uphill/trail runner-combination I struggle a bit to get uphill. Than, suddenly I see a bear walking towards me! He doesn’t notice me until we are very, very close to each other. The bear sits still, moves it ears and sniffs a bit… It turns around and speeds off, leaving me this fresh and muddy paw.



After the bear-forest the trail leads through exposed hills. Here are no houses, just a few herders in the far distance. On this section I didn’t see a lot of springs. I also didn’t prepare this stage so I might have walked by some…

A dirt road leads into Ružica where I am welcomed by barking dogs and a herder. He offers me coffee just at the right time; the air is rumbling and it starts raining. The herder and his wife take really good care of me, offering me fresh bread, a baked egg and cheese and off course, homemade raki.

When the rain stops it’s time to leave, and after showing me the spring at the other side of the village, I say goodbye (and a big thank you). From here the trail follows an unpaved road for a lot of kilometers, but this road doesn’t hurt to hike. It leads along old (and new) wooden houses, it’s got great views and there are a few springs along the trail. A few hours hiking from the town of Mojkovaj I setup my tarp, I’m done for today.

Getting to town

Along the unpaved road/trail local people are collecting berries, a little ways down I find myself some decent sized raspberries. It’s snack time! Because of rains there’s clouds hanging over the valley, my head’s probably in the clouds too; I miss the trail into town and hike a small detour.

Mojkovac
I like Mojkovac as a trail town; it’s small and there isn’t a lot going on here. It’s got a few hotels, grocery stores and restaurants. It’s right on the trail and everything is within walking distance.

To Dom Džambas

I’m a bit late arranging the permit for crossing the Montenegro/Albanian borders by foot. So, I need to slow down my hike, while the permit is getting arranged. From Mojkovaj I hike up to Dom Džambas, which is about 10 kilometers.

The hike out of town is interesting; the GPS track is a little bit off, there are markings (sometimes) and the trail sometimes disappears in thick bushes. Oh and watch out not to walk into someone’s garden; the dog probably doesn’t like that (and you neither). Then there’s a slightly eroded road (wouldn’t want to hike that when it’s raining). After this (just a few km’s) the trail hits an unpaved road. At about two kilometers before the hut there are two springs, close by a katun, just after the crossing by the cemetery.

I did not meet anyone at the hut, but it’s a good place to hang out. There are benches under a veranda and there’s a fire pit and views on Mojkovac and the valley. There’s not outside water access at the hut, but there are houses nearby and a spring a few hundred meters down the trail.



More pictures on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a carbonated and sugary soda pop.

This blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

Walking past her house, an old lady asks if I’d like kafu? Yes, please! She doesn’t speak any foreign language, but we do manage to have a entertaining chat. We even find out that she also met fellow Dutch and Via Dinarica-hiker Eva.

After the good and strong coffee a long road walk waits. Upon this plain there’s no water-sources (ask for it at one the houses) and it’s exposed out here. There’s also little traffic. The hike isn’t bad, the views are good but it’s warm and long. Luckily for me a car came driving by, it’s driver stopped and offered me a ride. It was only 7 km, but that’s about 1.5 hour walking. Yeah!



When I got out of the car I, clumsy me, stepped on my hip-belt buckle, crushing it between my foot and the asphalt. OK, breath in, breath out… Tourist town Žabljak is only two days hiking, I might be able to fix it over there, there’s worse places to end up with a broken buckle.

In Nedajno there’s a café next to road/trail; they serve good, tasty, local food and they also rent out rooms. After eating a big meal and cake for dessert it’s time to hike the last few road walk km’s down the canyon and to the hut.

At the hut there’s a watersource and spots for camping. I, however, take a long break and wait for the heat to go by. From here it’s a three hour walk up to the next hut at Skrcko jezero. This hike starts on flat grounds, making the first half a fast and easy walk. The second half of the hike is uphill and offers stunning views on the Durmitor mountains.

At the lake and the hut it’s pretty busy, and hikers keep arriving. After paying the park fee I set up my tarp at the small lake. I even put in my earplugs, which I never do sleeping under my tarp, to block out the noise of the other visitors.



Bobotov Kuk

Today I leave the Via Dinarica; climbing the almost highest peak of Montenegro isn’t included in the Via Dinarica-package. This is a small detour, you’ll find it on the Durmitor maps.

In the cool, early morning the climb out of this valley isn’t too hard. Unless you, like me, loose the marked trail. Two hours later, getting to know a group of Montegran hikers and one guy from Serbia and a very wise lesson learned I’m back on track.

With two precious morning hours lost I speed up as much as possible. There are already clouds building up in the sky and I do not want to end up hiking downhill in rain- or thunderstorm. At the saddle, just under to climb up to the peak, I leave the gear and extra weight I don’t need hiking up. Even though the trail is fine, this is outside my comfort zone. Everywhere I look I see… ehm… downhill.. steep…



But, hey, I’ve come this far, I’m not turning around! So I turn off my comfort zone for the climb up Bobotov Kuk. At the top the spectacular views are a reward, but after taking a few pictures I head down again. First of all to get it over with and second because the clouds are turning dark and a storm is building.



Back at the saddle I collect my gear and than the downhill walk starts. A little down the saddle there’s supposed to be a spring. A sign has been painted on two big rocks, but I have a hard time finding it. After standing still and listening I hear water running. The spring is no more than a small trickle. Someone left a piece of plastic which speeds filling up my bottle, thank you!

The hike down starts with gravel, than fields of rocks and an occasional snow field. This I wouldn’t want to hike with a heavy backpack. Again I speed up as much as possible; now I hear thunder in the air. Down at the Katun beer and soda pop are sold, but these I skip because of weather. It’s party time! 

Thunder and lightning, just far enough to not get uncomfortable. The party is completed with a long, big hail- and rainstorm. Now the trail turns into a muddy river. The next hour or so I just hike. Slow and steady so I don’t slip. Finally the rain stops and I arrive at the parking lot just outside of Žabljak. I hike a fast 2.5 km into town and check in at the first hotel I run into. Now I deserve a real shower!

Žabljak

Žabljak is the place for hikers and tourists who head out into Durmitor NP. It’s busy! I had a hard time finding a place to sleep the second night I stayed here. The hotel I checked in at the first night had only a room available for one night and I was to tired and cold to head out and find something else. The hostel only had rooms available for two or more nights…There’s a very small ski shop which sells some backpacks and clothing. I could not find a gas canister (they only ones for sale are buta gaz). I guess my food situation is getting interesting in a few days…

I bought a cheap backpack at a butik and cut off the buckle to replace the broken one. In the grocery store it’s crazy busy but it sells a good variety of hiker foods. And… there’s an Internet café! The local kids are hanging out and playing games here and because of a thunderstorm electricity went out a few times. But it made me happy and I managed to do a lot of work on my blog.

More pictures on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a strong cup of coffee.

This blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

It’s a fast hike down from Donje Bare to the road. It seems like a lot of maintenance work has been done on the last few km’s to the road (thank you!). 

Thinking about omelet and kafa I don’t mind hiking the asphalt road to Tjentiŝte. Even though calories and protein are waiting for me I cannot resist hiking up the enormous monument just before the hotel Mladost. At the hotel I totally ignore Kenan, who happens to be out here too (not wearing my glasses and thinking about omelet and kafa…hmmmmm). Just outside of Tjentište, in Popov Most, I stay at Household Radović. This is a good spot for a zero. Mira, the owner, bought me resupplies which saved me carrying a lot of weight through from Kalinovik.

Leaving Tjentiŝte

The road walk back to the trail is a few km’s from here, the hike’s not too bad, there’s some good views and even though there’s traffic, it’s OK to walk. After the road walk there’s a 4×4 road, where I actually surprised, if I’m correct, a mountain goat. The climb up to Prijevor is over a fine trail (I believe recent work has been done here too). Than there’s the first view on Maglić. This is the place were other hikers and tourists park their cars and today it’s busy!
The trail to Trnovačko Lake is like a red carpet and this thru-hiker is speeding! The lake is really, really, really touristic. I get why: within a two hour walk from the car one gets stunning Alpine views and the experience of being out in the wild.

After meeting Ranger Milos and paying the park- and camping fee, I decide to leave this tourist trap. This is way beyond my comfort zone. On an old map I have seen a camping spot up the saddle, somewhere near a spring. I’m not sure if it is still allowed to bivouac here (camping is only allowed at designated areas). But, for once, I decide to act like an oblivious tourist and to not find out if it’s OK. So, after an early supper I hike up from the lake to the saddle and leave it to the loud tourists. The spring I find (it’s just after the crossing, there’s a sign). The camping spot I do not find. Well, it’s too late to change anything about that, now. I find myself a spot for bivouac and try to leave as little as trace as possible.

The only way is up…

The next morning I only bring what I need for hiking up Maglić, all other gear I leave at the bivouac. There’s no need for carrying extra weight if I’m returning here. Maglić (and Bosnia and Herzegovina) are kind to me: I get to hike it with a clear blue sky. Yeah! This is the best way to say goodbye!

…and down…

After Maglić it’s time to leave impressive Bosnia and Herzegovina and hike down into Montenegro. And down it is! Today is a warm day, there’s fields full of zooming bees feasting on the flowers and there are, again, awesome views (there’s also a few springs on the way down).

Mratinje

Then getting back into civilization, also means hitting an asphalt road. The upside: lots of springs along the road. At Piva I take a long break to seek shelter from the heat and to eat an early dinner (here’s a camping spot and a mum and here son were swimming out here).

…and up again…

It’s too early to stop hiking and I’m in for a challenge: climbing Piva canyon is going to be today’s dessert. Not after more road walking (about 5 km)…

The trail out of the canyon is pretty steep and there’s lots of weeds growing. This probably isn’t a wise hike with a heavy backpack or in rainy weather. But I guess I like hiking this one uphill better than downhill… At two thirds of the climb it gets way better, here the trail follows something that seems to be an old unused forest road.

Up the canyon there are, to my surprise, farms (they’re not on my gps maps). I find myself a spot along the trail. It seems to been a car track too. A bivouac this visible is not what I like, but I’m tired and all I want to do is lay down…

Note: Between the Mratinje and the houses up the canyon there’s no water. Just up the canyon there are more secluded spots for bivouac.

More pictures on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a carbonated and sugary soda pop.

This blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

After buying a new trekking pole and eating lots of calories in busy and warm Sarajevo it’s time to leave for the cool Bjelasnica mountains. Not after drinking coffee with Kenan, coordinator of the trail, who wants to know all about my experiences on trail. Asking difficult questions like, what part do you like best?
Because of the coffee I have a late start. I planned on hiking out of town, but it’s too warm for that now. A taxi brings me to the hotel area at Bjelašnica. There’s quite some preparation going on for the upcoming winter season, but after a few hundred meters I’m back in the silent, white mountains.

Back on track

A fast hike over a 4×4 track brings me back to Umoljani and after a few km’s next to the road-walk and a few more km’s through farmland (lots of springs at the side of these roads). I’m at the foot of Visočica mountain. Here I meet some local people who left the Sarajevo warmth for a cool and relaxing village home in summer.

It’s five in the afternoon: too late to hike up Visočica, too early to stop hiking. Via a walk around the mountain over quiet village roads I reach hut Vrela. The keeper speaks a little English and there’s cola for sale, the hut is well taken care of and there’s a shower. Yeah!

And then, a small group of hikers arrive. They just climbed the mountain and we chat a little. People being people and being concerned they somehow mistake me for tourist who doesn’t now what she’s up to. The upcoming hike over the road through Treskavica is, I agree, not the most scenic hike in Bosnia and Herzegovina. ‘No one from here would ever walk that!’ True, thru-hiking is not the same as a day out climbing a peak and riding home afterwards. Sometimes there’s not so spectacular parts to hike, also because there’s mine danger on Treskavica.

When things get clarified they invite me for dinner and as fast as they arrived at Mountain Lodge Vrela, they leave (guys I did not even get the chance to ask your names?!).

Up and over Treskavica

Overnight there has been a change of weather; now there’s thick and dark clouds instead of clear blue skies. The first few km’s are a hike over the road. The drivers of the few cars driving by stop and ask me about my plans and telling there’s mines at Trescavica, offering me a ride. ‘Yes, I know, thank you for sharing, no thanks’ – in multiple languages.

In the afternoon it’s partytime: it rains showers, just as I start the hike up the boring forest road up Treskavica. Now I wouldn’t mind a ride. Too bad there’s no traffic out here.

Arriving at the top of the road the showers stop and there’s a spring. Upon taking my full Gore-tex suit off, I discover a soaking wet and propably drowned phone in one of my pockets. The phone I bought just over a week ago to replace the one I lost in the dwarf pine bushes at Prenj.
How do I manage to do this? Shame, shame, shame, shame, shame on me. A few rays of sun and nice views after the boring forest road cheer me up a little.

Then there’s a crossing: the trail goes through the mountains to the town of Kalinovik (longer, more scenic) or it’s the pretty ok and faster roadwalk to Kalinovik. There’s also pretty impressive clouds being blown in the direction I’m going. I take a break and watch the clouds for a bit and decide to take hike the fast route.

After buying a bag of rice for my phone at one of the convinience stores I check in at the hotel in Kalinovik. A little while later a 24hr rain-, thunder- and lightning-show starts.
More pictures on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a carbonated and sugary soda pop.

This blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

After buying a new phone and rewriting lost blog posts the cab driver drove me back up the pleasantly cool mountains.

This stage,  from Ruište to Boračko Jezero, is a roadwalk and roadwalks aren’t the most appealing to thru-hikers. But, it turns out to be a nice hike. Today it’s cloudy which makes hiking this exposed road less of challenge, there’s nice views and there’s no traffic. I did hike the shortcut to the lake, making the hike 5km shorter, but I missed some historical sights.

Boracko Lake

At the beautiful,  but touristic lake I ate a big lunch at one of the restaurants. After buying resupplies at the mini-market I topped off with ice-cream, crisps and more soda pop getting ready for some more kilometres.

The canyon

First there’s a roadwalk over asphalt. The views and lots of afternoon shade eased the hike. After crossing the suspension bridge over the Neretva (not my favorite) the trail runs through farmland and a few settlements to the next river, the Rakitni. I met a German speaking pensioner/herder. We talked a bit and he showed me the mountains I had hiked through and the ones coming up. He also told me the last time a bear had been seen in this area was thirty years ago, before the war. They have all been shot and eaten.

After the Neretva/Rakitni confluence I was warned, the trail is in a bad state. The weather being good and the sun setting I wanted the see the evening views on the canyon and decided to hike on. I have to agree this part of the trail is in a bad state. There has been a forest fire which means lots of weeds growing. Further up there’s loose rocks along steep slopes down into the canyon. However,  I did not have any problems finding my way.


I did get to see great evening views, but finding a decent spot for bivouac turned out to be a challenge… I ended up doing some landscaping. Then laying in my bivy I was eaten by mosquitoes and there were lots of big nocturnal grasshoppers. Oh and there was this huge flying bug, helicopter style, which was very interested in me too. Using my tarp I fixed myself an upper-body-mini-tent locking out bugs and locking in the damp I produced while breathing.

The closer the trail gets to the village of Dubocani, the better it gets. From Dubocani, I was told, there’s two choices. The marked trail follows the road, the GPS track is the shortest option but this is trailless terrain. I ended up hiking the GPS track, along this track there’s a surprise watersource just after the last roadcrossing at about 1000 meter.

Plateau

After a hike through the forest, which is easy to navigate through, there’s the plateau with stunning views! At the, in the war, completely destroyed village of Blace there’s a somewhat dirty watersource (including a dead snake laying in it when I checked it out). And then there’s more hiking along the plateau with more stunning views.

Lukomir

At the spring in Lukomir one of the villagers told me where I could camp (I was just refilling my waterbottles and did not yet ask her). As I lay in my bivy near a haystack the sheep and herders returned home for the night.


Since being out here I decided to leave the trail and hike an alternate so I can go into Sarajevo without hiking the same trail twice. 

From Lukomir I hiked to the village of Umoljani. On the trail I met a young couple exploring the area. We ended up chatting for a while and the served me second breakfast fresh bread, tomatos, cheese… hmmm At Umoljani I enjoyed a big third breakfast at one of the restaurants. This village is quite touristic, espacially in the weekends.

From here I hiked to another part of Bjelasnica mountains. This trail is not marked, but navigating and the terrain is easy.

Close to Sitnik, the first mountain hut I reached, old markings were visible. This hut is locked but there’s an outside well and from this hut there’s a perfect trail to the next hut.

Within no time i’d hiked the two kilometres to Stanari, according to the information I found on internet this hut is openend in the weekends… and yeah! there were two man sitting, drinking and eating in front of Stanari.


Stanari

Even though they did not speak any foreign language the gave me a warm welcome, a princess room with a princess blanket, they served me food and drinks and gave me candy and cookies. They were surprised that I’d hiked all the way and all alone from Lukomir. While enjoying music from the 80’s en 90’s we overlooked the mountains and the sunset.

The next morning man came crawling ouy of every corner of the hut. One of them living in Sweden and speaking English. He found out that even though the hut has been there since the fourties, there has never been a fridge. So he bought one and today it’s being delivered.

While waiting for the fridge I asked the man for some muscalair power to fix my trekking pole. This ending up using pretty big tools and completly dissecting the pole. The thing got fixed but we were unable to put it back together…



Than a Jeep arrived bringing the fridge.

Making this a memorable moment: from now on there’s cold beer available at Stanari!!!



Sarajevo and a shower (and hopefully a shop selling trekking poles) were waiting for me and I left this mans’ cave. After hiking a fast and easy nine kilometres I reached the town of Pazaric from where I took the bus into Sarajevo.

More pictures on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a carbonated and sugary soda pop.

This blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

Montenegro or Crna Gora in Serbian. I have to confess that I didn’t know where the name comes from, I only knew that it meant ˝Black Mountain˝. I didn’t really see black mountains though. In Montenegro the mountains were green. Everything was green. Green valleys, green peaks, green forests, green fields.. Green, green, green in all possible shades and shapes.

The Via Dinarica trail leads you from National Park to National Park, it connects one stunning piece of nature after another. Day after day I slept high up in the mountains. Just a few little towns along the way, but other than that, it’s mountains mountains mountains. Karst mountains. Mountains covered with white rocks and colorful flowers. Steep cliffs, sweet hills, impressive peaks and a lot of cattle. Sheep mostly.

Komovi National Park

Stones

Sheep

From Rikavačko Jezero I followed a macadam road to Katun Krivodoljski and went further up until I found a nice place to camp. This was my first bivouac without any people, village or mountain-bar-kafe-restaurant nearby. The first night absolutely, completely on my own. I felt it, it did something, confused me. A strange mix of emotions. The beauty, the silence, the solitude. Tired, hungry and happy. Komovi got from that moment on, a special place in my heart. I became a fan.

Welcome Fans of Komovi!

Bivouac

Early in the morning

This is Komovi ?

Komovi flew over into Bjelasica and Biogradska Gora National Park. It was quite some unpaved road hiking with here and there a real hiking path, but I enjoyed every step. The road gently curved along the mountains, a real treat for everybody who likes to look around during a hike. Wide vistas, spectacular views all day long. Until the descend to Mojkovac.

Bjelasica

Biogradska Gora

From Bjelasica to Biogradska

In Mojkovac the Tara river begins, a phenomenal river that follows its way all into Bosnia and Herzegovina. I didn’t get to see much of it though, I went immediately up to Sinjajevina. This was the part I was a bit afraid of. ˝No water for over 70K and it’s really hard to find your way up there… No shelters, no facilities, no maps, no nothing!˝ Hmmm..

Family that offered me a dry place to sleep.

Their house in Sinjajevina

Sinjajevina surprised me. Perhaps because I had low expectations and took all the precautions I could. I carried a lot of water and food, way-marked possible shelters I came across and carefully watched the clouds. In the end it all wasn’t as difficult or dangerous as I thought it would be. It was a pleasant surprise to be on this high ˝plateau˝ for a few days in a row. Even without stunning peaks or significant changes in altitude, for sure, Sinjajevina was intensely beautiful. Beautiful and wild in its own way.

Hiding from the thunder and rain…

The trail itself mostly followed the Crna Gora Transversale, the CT-1. Not extremely demanding in terms of steep climbs or exposed ridges. Actually the terrain was mostly grassy, covered with stones and rocks. The CT-1 isn’t extremely popular (anymore/yet). This means there is no obvious hiked path and as far as the marks go, they are really hard to spot in the high grass. So yeah, thank you Garmin for keeping me on track.

Random marker

Random flower

Between Sinjajevina and Durmitor there are some unavoidable road sections. Still I wouldn’t say that this is a bad part of the trail. It’s part of the deal when you’re hiking a long distance trail. You hike through a country, connecting the places, mountains, National Parks. You’re connecting the dots. It is inevitable that you cross some towns and some roads every now and then. They are to me just as much part of the deal, part of the trail. The trail as a story of a country in total.

A macadam section, with water ?

Arriving in Žabljak was a bit overwhelming. This little town is full of apartments, B&B’s and hotels. Restaurants, bars, cafes and shops. The tourist centers selling maps and on every corner there is an outdoor agency that sells tours. This National Park that is doing good business. But still, once you’re up in the mountains, up in Durmitor, you hardly meet anyone else. And the good thing is, that there are accessible, well maintained hiking paths.

Luckily it is easy to escape the towny, touristy craziness by camping at Ivan Do, next to Crno Jezero at the foot of Durmitor NP. Once you’re there, you can see, smell and feel Durmitor.

Kamp Ivan Do, Žabljak

Wow wow wow. Durmitor really rocks! I prefer hiking in rocky terrain with a little bit of forest every now and then. I love ridges, traversing on a mountain or mountain range. Staying up high, exposed and open. The possibility to go to some peaks, but the guaranteed pleasure of hiking through a stunning scenery all day long. Who doesn’t want that?

Škrčko jezero

Again, nature was in control, the weather, the terrain, water sources, not knowing what to expect. During the day the temperatures could rise pretty high, but at night is was all of the sudden chilly. Clouds and thunderstorms told me when and how to move. I respected that, respected the mountains. Patiently waited out bad weather. Let the weather decide.

Sušica Kanjon

Trnovačko jezero

Trnovački Durmitor

The last leg of the Via Dinarica trail in Montenegro followed the Sušica Canyon to Nedajno, led me through this so called Trnovački Durmitor and brought me to the famous heart shaped lake, Trnovačko Jezero. With the mountain Maglić on the border between Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina, this was the last climb in Montenegro. With this climb, I managed to completely cross the second country on the Via Dinarica. I connected the mountains of Montenegro from border to border. From lake to lake. Every mountain massif had its own story, its own character with its unique features and typical appearance.

All beautiful. Spectacular, strong and powerful. Peaks, lakes, rocks. Canyons and high plateaus. Sharp lines, shapes and colors. Bright colors. Splendid vistas, majestic view. Rapidly changing weather, unpredictable nature. Diverse landscape and rural mountain life.

The mountains of Montenegro are absolutely magnificent!

{youtube}Y11roIMmQW8{/youtube}


{youtube}PLRKMkWaaG3ql4cH1mtBycWCMkrmE8UPzB&v=M-EVAH-RuFI{/youtube}

For more photo’s click here

The cab driver drops me off at the start of stage 27. Here it is the first time I’m welcomed by bright and shiny Via Dinarica-waymarkers. Together with a clear and blue sky this feels like a warm welcome! Today is an easy hike over a Jeep track following green and flowery hills. Along the way there’s some sights: caves,  sinkholes, Eastern European art and crosses marking a pilgrims route.

Today is an easy hike over a Jeep track following green and flowery hills. Along the way there’s some sights: caves,  sinkholes, Eastern European art and crosses marking a pilgrims route.



For thru-hikers there’s something more interesting waiting: restaurant Lovre (WiFi, good food and very friendly staff). A few down the road there’s also a convenient store which is opened from 7-21. After a plentiful lunch I decided to also hike stage 28 – making it a 40km day. This stage starts with the crossing of a plain,  a nice and fast hike through fields of grain and flowers.



Than starts the climb up the mountain. There plenty of markings,  but sometimes they’re hiding I have the bushes. At some points there’s quite some weeds growing, but not as much as at certain parts in Croatia. Getting good closer to the top the markings disappear but it’s easy navigating up here.  Together with Maria I share the views over the valley.



Hiking downhill there’s almost no markings,  these return at the little stream where whereas refill my waterbottles. Than starts a easy hike over a green forestroad. Lots of work has been done here to mark the trail.

Just before the sun sets behind the mountains I find myself a spot to bivouac with a a view on the upcoming stage.



Vran mountain 

It is summer in BiH! Today: again clear blue skies and it is very, very warm. This stage starts with a hike over a forest road. People and big machines were cutting trees and probably getting this pittoreske road ready for forestry. 



An exposed hike

Hiking up and over Vran mountain on a very warm day wasn’t easy.  There’s lots off extra ups and downs due to small peaks and the saddle. I actually had to rewrite this blog since I lost my mobile phone, I but there’s way more kilometers in this stage than mentioned on the Via Dinarica website.



The hike downhill,  towards mountain Hut Blidinje, is pretty steep with lots of loose rocks. It’s tough on the knees.



Mountain lodge Blidinje

This lodge is a little off trail and it’s being renovated at this moment. I actually met some people working on it,  lucky me! Within no time I was seated, given a cola and a beer and their lunches’ leftovers! I intended to sleep at the grill area, but I was given a key so I could sleep inside. And take a shower. And charge my devices. Even though the hut is being renovated it’s already a nice place to stay!


Čvrsnica 

To get to Cvrsnica there’s first a plain to cross. Here the GPS was a little bit of the markings. At Donje Bare spring there’s lots off weeds, a little bit of Bushwhacking is needed here. After this it’s marking-galore again to almost to hut Plasa. Later more on that. From here the only way is up.  And here too lots of trailwork has been done. A trail has been cut through dwarf pines and there’s markings and waymarks. The trail is new, so not all parts are an easy hike.

Once out of the forest there’s stunning views on the surrounding mountains. Here my camera really got broken, to see the stunning views you’ve got to hike these mountains yourself. 


After a hike over a high plain there’s the climb up to Vrutak. This seems like a imposing hike, but the trail is easy to hike and it’ll take less than 45 minutes.

After this it’s a short and easy hike to Hut Vrutak. It’s 5 minutes off trail and not 15 like stated on the signs. The hut is only open by arrangement, I took a long break at it (and refilled my waterbottles).

To Hut Plasa
The trail from Vrutak to Plasma is great: amazing views (also on Prenj), well maintained maintained and probably attracts a lot hikers. Just before Plasa the markings disappear. A trail seems to lead into dwarf pine bushes. Don’tever try to Bushwhack those! I eventually ended up hiking around the evil dwarf pines and than up to last hill.From here it is straight down over gravel. This part of the trail definitely needs some TLC.
Even though I only stayed outside this hut, I this is a really nice one.  Even the outhouses are near.  The The views on Prenj are amazing from here. The first part of the hike to town from Plasa is pretty OK, just lots of downhill with views on the mountains. Then it reaches a dirtroad, than the city’s landfill and than few km’s asphalt lead into Jablanica.

Jablanica

This is a small town with two big grocery stores, restaurants, a motel above café Hollywood (don’t stay there they play loud music every night. Café Ruza also has rooms) and busses running to Sarajevo and Mostar. I took a zero to buy a new camera in Mostar.

More pictures on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a refreshing soda pop.

This blog has blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

Traveling from Starigrad to Knin took me a day, but I got to see the beautiful old town of Ŝibenik. In Knin I checked in at a hotel at the outskirts of the town and close to the trail. Since it’s really warm out here I decided to leave the hotel early in the morning.

After hiking for about an hour I crossed a dirt road, just at the moment an old truck came slowly driving uphill. In it were the bee keeper and his two friends, I learned. Since they were driving all the way to Brezovac, where I was heading too, I had to get in truck. No discussion.
So as I sat on a plastic chair between bee hives enjoying the early morning views on the surrounding mountains, I was slowly driven up to Brezovac.

Brezovac
There were no other hikers, so Brezovac mountain hut was closed (it’s only open by arrangement). There’s some nice, shaded camping-spots near the hut. But, don’t count on getting water from the cistern: it’s locked!

As I wasn’t carrying enough water to hike the Dinara on this warm day, I tried my luck at some holiday houses close-by. No one was in and there was no outside access to water. As one house was being renovated an old barrel stood outside, from which I took water.



The next cistern is at the other side of Dinara at Skloniŝte Martinova Košara – so hopefully the cistern at Brezovac will be unlocked for thru-hikers.

To the top
The hike to the top of the Dinara is quite easy. The only hard part, is that’s its very exposed. I reached the top around 10.30 and since I heard thunder I hiked down at fast as possible.

Skloniste Martinova Koŝara
This from the outside nice looking shelter is kind of a mess inside; lot’s of flies and bugs and critter droppings. The good thing about this hut is the earlier mentioned cystern nearby. Since of the mess, the threatening thunder and the exposed surroundings I decided to hike to Glavaš



On trail at a 1000 meter there’s a, again, surprise spring; fresh water coming straight from the mountain, yum yum! Just before Glavaš there’s the impressive ruins of a 15th century fort. I took a short break, since of the weather.



As I arrived a Glavaš it started to rain. The door of the hut (container) was closed, so I pitched my tarp as quick as possible. Just as the thunderstorm started I lay under the tarp, a big storm it was including hail as big as M&M’s.

Later, when it stopped raining, I discovered a second door in the hut. This one’s open and in it an pretty OK space containing bunk beds.



Kijevo
The next morning I hiked eight kilometers to the road and village of Kijevo. There was supposed to run some busses, but after waiting for 2.5 hours and no bus showing up, I decided to hitch back to Knin. From were I traveled by train to Split. The next two stages aren’t hiking trails, they’re biking trails over paved roads. So after buying a new pair of trail runners and other supplies I’m taking a bus from Split to Tomislavrad in BIH. After getting Bosnian cash and a sim card I’ll get back to trail at stage 27. From here, hopefully, no detours (except for resupplies) until Albania anymore.

More pictures on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a refreshing soda pop.

This blog has blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

Leaving town is always hard. Especially when the forecast is rain.

And rain there was. I hiked the shortest/fastest trail to Ŝugarska Duliba; about halfway there’s a crossing and two choices to get to the shelter. I guess the other one’s more scenic, but who cares when get soaked by the rain? I later found out that there’s a new shelter (5 person, solar panels and water) on the Dinarica – choice, it’s not on the maps yet.

Šugarska duliba
Another hiker just left Šugarska duliba (the wood stove was still burning), which helped drying my clothes and gear. This shelter is in an awful state, it’s a big mess, dirty, run down, taken over by Puh’s and other critters…
At the beginning of the evening the weather changed and I decided to sleep outside, under my tarp – save from the Puh’s. There’s a cistern close-by and around the cistern there’s some good camping spots too.

Tetekovo duliba/Stap (daddy’s shelter)
The next day it’s a short hike to the shelter (5 to 6 hours). Heading on is not an option, the next shelter is to far to hike to that same day and this area has been affected by the war – it’s not save to leave the trail. And; camping is only allowed next to the shelters in the national parks.

The first half of the hike is really nice; some good views on the coast, hiking through shaded forest, etc. Then after the ruins of forest house Juliba a logging area starts. There’s signs, but some are easy to miss and there’s also a lot of ruined trail. So keep on checking if you’re still on it (or somewhat on it).


After the logging area it’s time for a treat: great views on those beautiful Karst peaks! Tatekova koliba has been build on an amazing spot, surrounded by high peaks. This shelter is being taken care of, it’s small but clean.
Closeby runs a little stream (use the one after the shelter, the first one’s being used as a toilet area). If the stream’s dry there’s a water pump a little down the trail. Again I slept outside, since of the Puh and also because of the warm temperature. There’s a donation box inside this shelter, don’t forget the leave some money for maintenance.
Stap
This morning I start my hike early, since I’m expecting it to be warm. Today there’s a lot change in scenery; the hike starts with views on the Karst mountains, then forest and then green hills full of flowers.


Along the way there’s a few cisterns containing water next to ruined houses. Like all water from cisterns it needs purifying, but if you’re a thru-hiker you’re probably carrying a filter anyway. Next is a plain, it’s beautiful but exposed, so burning hot and flies everywhere.

At the chapel I take a break. There’s benches and shade and most important; a cistern. A little after here the climb up to Struge starts. It’s about 500 meter and got stunning views. The trail is nice and well maintained. There’s even two springs on the way to the top.


Struge
Struge is a nice and busy shelter, this is were I met other hikers for the first time in days. Two day-hikers who fed me speck (bacon), bread onion. ‘Please eat. Don’t be ashamed you need it to hike to Macedonia’. This is also were I met Ivan and his friend. Two well informed hiker. Do you remember the dog? Well it’s common for him to walk along with hikers. He always returns to his boss. They also showed me pictures of the new hut between Baŝke Oŝterije and they tell me that the next hut has been torn down. They invite me for dinner; risotto with homemade speck and cheese. Yummy! Again in Struge there’s mice, Puh and other animals living in and around it. Water can be collected from a cistern which is a 20 minutes hike from the hut (or carry water uphill taken from the spring).

Tulove grede
I start my hike early since I want to reach Tulove grede as early as possible. First is the ascent to Vaganski vrh., the highest peak in NP Paklenica.
Although I hiked in the mist most of the morning, the views are stunning and I really enjoyed this part of the trail!
Leaving NP Paklenica
Shelter Vlaški Grad doesn’t exist anymore. There’s a cistern close-by and a little further down the trail there’s a spring – it only had a small trickle. Just before exiting NP Paklenica there’s a spring, fresh and delicious water coming straight from the mountain. This is also where a plain starts. From now on the hike is exposed and blazing hot! There’s almost no shade and no water sources.
After the plain an endless road starts, it does have stunning views. Even though I tried to avoid it, I hiked this part of the trail in the full heat. This area has been heavily affected by the war, don’t go off trail.


Tulove grede
At Tulove grede there’s a little bit of shade. Here I decided to try to hitch back to civilization. There’s quite some tourists driving up here and there’s no suitable spot for bivouac (mines and very exposed to both weather and muggles). This road is only used by either hikers or tourists (most of being driven by in a 4×4 and on a photo-safari). Don’t count on an easy hitch here! After waiting for a long time, at a parking lot occupied by three cars, three Slovenian hikers gave me a ride to Starigrad. Way out of way… but I was very happy to get this ride.



About stage 19, 20 & 21
Stage 19 is in my opinion not a very pleasant stage to hike. Its very exposed and since of the mine situation its not safe to go offtrail. Therefore im skipping the remainder of this stage. If you’re planning on hiking this, make sure you got a good (better) strategy then I had. I’m also skipping stage 20 and 21. It will be hard to reach the start of stage 20 and after the climb to the summit its roadwalking. Stage 21 leads over paved roads and through rural areas – I guess finding a safe spot for bivouac will be difficult. So from Starigrad I will travel by public transport to Knin to hike Dinara, Croatias highest peak.

More photos on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a refreshing soda pop.

This blog has blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

The Via Dinarica White Trail officially ends in Albania, in the highest part of the Dinaric mountains, but I decided to start there. Surrounded by pointy sharp peaks and deep, green valleys it had been challenging, but stunning. Although there are only three stages in Albania, it took me a week to get to the Montenegran mountains.

On the 17th of June, I started at the end of the asphalt road in the Valbona river valley. From there, a four wheel drive track leads you to some small villages with charming little bars where they serve local food and drinks. The route from Valbona to Theth is one of the most popular day hikes in Albania and is also part of the Peaks of the Balkan trail. Despite the though climb and the adventurous steep parts, many tourist give it a try. Halfway I stopped at “Somoni Kafe” and ended up talking all afternoon with the father and son who were running the place during the summer months. I felt no need to go on, so I put up my tent at their bivouac spot and sat down for another chat with the two men.

Cuku i Valbones, Albania

Only 5K..

Where to go, Valbona Valley NP

The next day I continued hiking up and down the steep mountain passes. Prokletije, the accursed mountains were actually covered with colorful flowers, herbs and all sorts of butterflies. After Thethi I met just a few other hikers, but most of the time I was all on my own. It’s great to feel the strength of the nature all around you, but it can be scary too. The dark clouds and strong wind forced me to stay in the valley. I couldn’t climb Maja Jezercë, Albania’s highest mountain, because of the weather conditions. On the other hand the unpredictable weather brought me into unplanned, unique situations like spending the night in a Alpine mountain hut whit a shepherd family.

Thethi NP

Mushroom of Concrete, typical Albanian bunkers from the cold war.

The people I met along the trail were friendly and very helpful. They offered me places to sleep and even left me with the keys of their house while they went out for a family diner. The Albanian language had been hard, impossible to understand, but it never really was a problem. I met an old lady who went up into the mountains with her sheep, every day. On the way down to her house she showed me her favorite view points and sang a beautiful song while we were holding each others hands. It’s these moments that don’t need words. And it’s these moments that mean the world to me.

Above Vermosh where I met the sweet shepherd lady, Drande.

Crossing the border to Montenegro from Vermosh was interesting. Via Dinarica has got GPS tracks you can download from their website. I did not expect a marked trail, but a path or something that looked like a hiking trail would have been nice. After several tries hiking, climbing, crawling through bushes, I gave up. Went back with the old shepherd lady and tried an alternative route the next day. It was hard to find, steep and completely overgrown, but I managed to reach the border. I’m still curious if it’s possible to follow the GPS track, but on the other hand I think that the trail to Rikavačko Jezero is an amazing hike with spectacular views. I recommend the other Via Dinarica hikers to follow this route, because it will bring you to the most beautiful lake I have seen in Montenegro, Rikavačko Jezero.

New route to Montenegro, the trail to Rikavačko Jezero

Rikavačko Jezero, Montenegro

Albania has been stunning, steep and wild. During the day, the weather was unpredictable, but every night I’ve seen falling stars and fire flies. Good coffee, home made raki, sweet people and loads of funny sheep along the way. I’m glad that I took my time, but really the Albanian Alps deserve more than just one week…

For more photos click here

{youtube}LwlmdGbo2tY{/youtube}

{youtube}PLRKMkWaaG3ql4KZaTlMFn_3HKzffmgAUc&v=UWDxXMTR_Ok{/youtube}

After a relaxing day, a stay in a room with a view, some good seafood and buying resupplies in a well assorted store in Senj the bus brings me back to trail. Yeah, the trail beat me on the last section. But I know good things are waiting ahead! After a short road walk all trails lead to Oltari and hiking-paradise Velebit. A candy-red Lada Niva (I love those cars!), parked at a farm, brightens up my day. From now on things are getting better.

Oltari
The hike to Oltari is pleasant; green hills, flowers, farmland and (almost) no bushwhacking. Since it’s a weeks day the hiking hut in Oltari is closed, so I install myself on the terrace. It’s got all these luxuries; a toilet, a table and bench, water from a tab (that needs to be cleaned)… Then, after finishing dinner, a dad with two kids arrive. They’re staying at the hut this week, so I move from the terrace into a private dorm.



Zavižan
The next morning the sun is shining, but I’m not feeling fit (I caught a cold thanks to the rain). I decide to hike to mountain hut Zavižan, there I’ll see if I feel fit enough to hike on. It’s still early when I arrive at Zavižan and although it’s a nice hut, it’s not a cozy place to hang around. So, after taking a break, I decide to keep on hiking – at a slow but steady pace.

Premužić trail
From Zavižan the Dinarica follows the scenic Premužić trail. This trail was build in the 1930’s, it leads along the mountains but there’s small ascends and descents. It makes an inaccessible and rugged part of Velebit easy to hike. This is like hiking a red carpet!

Today is the first day I meet quite some other hikers; it’s a well known trail, easy to get to by car and yeah the stunning views… too bad I’m feeling ill. After a lunch break at Rossijevo Sklonište I decide to hike on to mountain hut Alan. This small shelter has recently been renovated, but there’s traces of Puh inside.There also a group of four French who are staying the night, I tell them about the Puh and to put away their food – I really hope they had a good night sleeping.

Alan
In Alan there’s not many hikers staying, so I get a small, private room. After a good, long and deep sleep I feel better the next morning. Too bad, this morning it is nasty outside; wind, rain, fog… At nine I decide to leave, this area is close to the coast and I hope the winds will change weather – after Inger, a wise Swedish stugvärd (warden), once taught me. My hike starts foggy. Then it gets better.

In the afternoon it’s clear blues skies and it’s getting hot! Halfway between Alan and Skorpovac there’s a spring (there ‘s only a trickle of water coming from it and I bet it’ll run dry later in summer).
At Skorpovac, a small shelter with a well, I pause for a while and chat a bit (in German) with the warden. He tells me not to be scared of wolfs and bears, it’s the snakes to watch out for (true, I really don’t like snakes – meeting them makes me jump and act like a girl – ieieieieie).


After leaving Skorpovac the warden’s dog joins me on my hike and while I’m not befriending him, he sticks with me. Yeah! Another Balkan experience!

Ravni Dabar
Since camping is only allowed close to the huts and shelters we hike on to Ravni Dabar. It’s a weeks day, so this hut isn’t open. After installing my tarp a dog somewhere in the valley starts barking. Then another. It’s pretty loud, impressive and annoying. It is also bothering my new friend – it is a relaxed dog but he’s getting nervous. Maybe it’s his presence in this valley? So we move to a shed that’s being used as a BBQ-area. I sleep on the table, my friend sleeps on an old cushion on the floor. I believe it caught (or scared) a Puh during the night.
Baške Ošterije
That morning it’s an eight km hike to Baŝke Oŝterije from where the bus to the village of Karlobag runs. My friend has suddenly left me – I hope he found his way back to Skorpovac.

I’m early and try to hitch to town, without any luck. At the hostel/restaurant the waitress tells me there’s no bus running, as do two elderly ladies who are out on a walk. Again I try to hitch. Again no luck. Then, lucky me, there’s the bus. The ride about a 1000 meter down to the coast is stunning. Karlobag is a tiny and relaxed village. I stayed at the decent and chearfull hostel Val. There’s a few small shops and with a bit of creativity I managed to buy resupplies for the next 100km.

More photos on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a coffee, soda pop or a high calorie meal.

This blog has blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

A few km’s after leaving Skloniste Miroslav Hirtz (stage 7) the fun started again. Fallen trees, an overgrown trail, searching for way markers – or all three combined. I bet there aren’t a lot of hikers using this trail! Hiking it solo, sliding over rocks, climbing over or under trees, head-high bushes, hidden rocks under the growth, checking the GPS – it slowed me down a lot.

After hitting the road and seeing the run down mountain hut, kuća Stalak, (probably meaning that there isn’t a lot of hiking going on around here) an almost empty food bag and another 30km to hike I decided to hitch to the town of Senj and skip the remainder of stage 8 and stage 9.

Hitching at this empty road took me an hour, and I was lucky the girls in first car driving by gave me a ride.

More photos on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a coffee, soda pop or a high calorie meal.

This blog has blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

Rain. Two full days of rain after leaving Fuzine. Including thunder and lightning. Oh and hail too. A hiker I met in one of the dom’s told me this area is known for the bad weather. Seven days of rain is supposed to be quite common. Because of the rain (and the lack of people out here) I saw a lot of bear signs; paw prints, scratching on trees and scat.
Bitorajska Shelter
I stayed at the Bitorajska Shelter (a shelter with a wood stove and water collected from the roof into a water tank). It’s a little offtrail but it kept me warm and dry, which I needed after even getting my underwear soaking wet. I didn’t get a lot of sleep; there’s a pack of door-mice living in this shelter.



I hiked the Dinara-route to Botorajska but it might also be possible to hike from the town of Vrata, close to Fužine, up to Bitorajka. This saves a lot of km’s. The trail seems at certain parts not to be used a lot. Again a lot of plants growing, fallen trees on the trail and again bushwhacking (old markings were sometimes visible). Not very well maintained, but doable, although I did a lot of sliding because of the very wet conditions and I choose to road-walk the last part to the town of Tuk. I did not meet a single person on a weekend’s day. Bitorajska does get a lot of visitors, according to the trailregister.

Tuk
After another very rainy day I stayed at Mountain Lodge Bijele Stijene in Tuk. There was a hikers meeting, so a lot people and free bean soup. They left in the afternoon and I had the hut to myself (if I promised to close the door after leaving the next morning). The shower and warmth were welcome after that very rainy day.

Bijele Stijene
Stage 7 starts quite easy. First road-walking, then a forest road and then the trail. There’s this very nice shelter, Ratkovo sklonište, a little off-trail. It’s build against/in a cave and a must see. Especially since there’s water (again being collected from the roof). Then the trail gets slowly demanding; climbing over and under trees, scrambling, rock-climbing, chains and stairs. As a reward there’s stunning views on the white Karst rocks!
Luckily for me today was a day without rain, which made hiking it (on trail runners and carrying a 40 liter backpack) way easier. Hiking this stage took a lot of time and energy. I decided to stay the night at Sklonište Miroslav Hirtz (also inhabited by door-mice), with a well close-by.



More photos on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a cup of the strong Turkish coffee they’re serving here.

This blog has blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

Recently, I went on an amazing hike with my friend Eva, a fellow Via Dinarica enthusiast and a travel blogger from Amsterdam. We walked, climbed, and ambled our way out of Sarajevo and eventually made it to Vukov Konak, a charming guesthouse in the mountains near Vucja Luka village. Here are our different sides of the same story, and information about how you can complete the same hike – and have your own unique adventure.

Eva: Hiking from Sarajevo to Vukov Konak

A few weeks ago while I was still in Amsterdam, I saw a post on the Terra Dinarica Facebook page about a guesthouse named Vukov Konak. They were looking for volunteers to help them during the summer season. Of course my plan was (and still is) to hike the White Trail, but I couldn’t help clicking and scrolling down Vukov Konak’s page. When I came across a video that showed a little concert in their cosy wooden living room, I knew I had to go and find that place. If a video post on Facebook can touch me, who knows what can happen in real life.

So I start searching “how to get to Vukov Konak” and found out that it was only a one-day-hike from Sarajevo. Terra Dinarica made it even easier with the tour “Hiking from Sarajevo to Vucja Luka” they created in Outdooractive. This tour is part of the Via Dinarica Green Trail which will be finished soon. I could download the GPS track and print the map with descriptions. Een kind kan de was doen, is wat we would say in The Netherlands. It means that the job can be done even by a child…

When I told Maggie, a girl from the US who works for Terra Dinarica, about my plan to hike to Vukov Konak, she immediately decided to join me. Thrilled and excited we met at Vijećnica, the starting point in the middle of Sarajevo. Maggie printed out the description of the route and I brought my new GPS device. Besides spending the day in the mountains, for me it was also about getting used to use a GPS while hiking. I’m easily distracted by thoughts, conversations and of course by nature. Which is all right and I enjoy that, but I have to prepare myself for this summer. On the Via Dinarica it will be necessary to have some navigation skills and be focused. Although a GPS makes it a whole lot easier, it is quite some work to figure out how that thing works. With this hike I could check and test everything I’ve learned so far.

Cheerfully chatting we started to climbed our way out of the city centre towards the yellow fortress. There we found the first trail markers that led us through the labyrinth of small streets and steep stairs. Although there were quite a lot of stray dogs, we safely reached the first viewing point where we could fill our water bottles. My GPS told us that we were still on the right track, our green line perfectly matched the purple line on the screen. Maggie called Vukov Konak to check if they were still open by the time that we would arrive. If we would keep on going like we did, it was doable to be there at 5PM. Confident and optimistic we continued.



The description said that during the next part of the trail we had to make sure that we would stay on the paths, because of the sport shooting area we were about to cross. While walking on that path we heard several shots, but weren’t aware of the fact that bullets don’t care about hiking trails or hikers. When the shots became louder and a man started to wave at us, we realised that sport shooters also don’t care about trails or hikers. The man told us that this area is forbidden for hikers during the weekend and we had to make a detour along the road if we didn’t want to risk our lives…

A bit bummed out we turned around and headed back to the road. Suddenly a car stopped right in front of us, for a second I thought of asking for a ride to our next exit into the forest. But we didn’t. A girl with dyed red hair got out of the car and started to ask us some questions. I still don’t speak or understand Bosnian, so I let Maggie do the talking. The red haired girl explained that she was drunk… and wanted us to take a picture of her and her boyfriend with the amazing city view. That was the good thing about the detour, the spectacular views and crazy passer-by’s.

In Čavljak we stopped for a coffee at the mountain lodge where some men were playing cards, smoking and drinking beer. When they noticed the FiveFinger shoes I was wearing, their card play suddenly didn’t seem that important anymore. They invited us to stay for a drink, but we explained that we were on our way to Vukov Konak, which was still quite a long way to go. Like all the other people we would meet along the way they started to warn us that it was really really far. Most people even said it was irresponsible to go all the way up there with just the two of us.



At that time we were still optimistic that we could make it, we did most of the climbing and had already done one third of the tour. How hard could it be? We had all day and it was only 20 kilometers after all.

The road took us to a forest, finally we could leave the asphalt and feel the earth under our feet. This was absolutely the most lovely scenery I’d seen so far. Indescribable green grass, wide views and cute wooden huts. Although there were several refreshment stops, it wasn’t crowded or spoiled by people. In fact, because of these little bars there was a special vibe, all kinds of people who were enjoying the atmosphere  just as much as we did. Before we knew it, we sat down for another break. This time we did accept an invitation of two beer-drinking men and got ourselves a rakija before we went on.

Unfortunately we then discovered that we were not quite as far as we thought we were, which meant that we still had halfway to go. My legs didn’t agree with the rakija pauza and started to complain. At the same time, the sun disappeared behind dark grey clouds and all of the sudden there were no trail markers anymore. On the GPS we could see that we were off the purple line, but we couldn’t find a path that led us back. Add the worries of all the people we met during the day and the dense, eerie forest that lied in front of us… I seriously started to doubt if it was wise to go on. Maybe we had been a bit naive and a bit too slow after all. I didn’t want to get lost in that dark forest full of animals I was still afraid of.

Going back to the last trail marker we had seen didn’t make sense, because the description told us that we had to leave that dirt road and walk on the northern side of the Crepoljsko Mountain towards the forest, which we did. The only option, beside going back to Sarajevo, was to walk a few meters in each direction to see where we would meet the purple line on the GPS screen. Luckily there turned out to be a very small path through the grass after all. But at this spot, a signpost would have been kind of welcome.

Once we finally got back on track we stepped up our pace a little, but still not in such a hurry. Maggie was the most positive. Maybe because she likes forests, but they give me the creeps. I prefer mountain landscapes with wide views. But I have to admit that it was a kind of special feeling to be all alone, or just the two of us, in that huge wild piece of nature. Our conversation turned to more serious subjects, maybe heavy but not creepy at all. It was a completely different atmosphere, which led to completely different emotions and feelings than the lovely green landscape only a few hours ago had. I love to be on my own, but during this hike, the fact that we made it together added something that couldn’t be experienced by being all alone.

All of the sudden the high trees made room for a great view over the hills and mountains before we took the last turn towards our destination. The threatening clouds slowly disappeared and the moment we arrived at the guesthouse, the sun started to shine. At 5PM exactly we walked onto the terrace of this beautiful place surrounded by nature, right into the arms of the warm and friendly Vukov Konak crew.

Maggie had to go back to Sarajevo, but I decided to stay for the BBQ and ended up spending the night. It was a special evening with an eclectic group of people. Guests, volunteers, owners. Finns, Germans, Hungarians, an American girl, the Bosnian host and a guy from Slovenia who was there to pick up his new Finnish girlfriend. Rakija and a Finnish sausages. Bosnian coffee with Lakka (I believe it was). Stories and a campfire, music and more beer. And of course the very amusing goat with a name I forgot.

Maggie: Sarajevo to Vukov Konak on Foot

At 9 AM, I set out from my house in downtown Sarajevo toward Vijećnica (Town Hall) to meet Eva, who will hike the entire Via Dinarica White Trail this summer.

Our mission was to hike to Vukov Konak, a mountain guesthouse near the village of Vucja Luka, about 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) away from Sarajevo. We were testing ourselves by relying on nothing but the guidance of the information we got on Outdoor Active, “Europe’s largest outdoor platform for trails, tracks, tours and outdoor route planning.” Via Dinarica has its own Outdoor Active platform under the “Maps and Trail” tab above, where you can find each stage of the trail and all offshoots and points of interest along the way.

We had printed the materials for the Vucja Luka tour, which is part of the Via Dinarica Green Trail. These included a detailed map, turn-by-turn directions, and statistics such as the total ascent (1,096 meters) and descent (429 meters) and the estimated time to get there, which was 7 hours. Eva also had a GPS device, to practice using it in preparation for her Via Dinarica journey.

It was a hot and sunny day, and we were both sweating after the climb to Zuta Tabija (Yellow Fort) 20 minutes in, but were excited and energetic and had no desire to take a break. The climb out of Sarajevo, up many narrow, rocky staircases occasionally flanked by growling stray dogs, was probably the most grueling and steep part of the journey, but somehow we barely noticed at the time. We were psyched up for a long day.

This was good, because along the way, all the weekend hikers and picnickers we passed told us that Vucja Luka was too far away, and seemed to think we were crazy to try to walk there. Our explanations – especially the part about the Via Dinarica and Eva’s plan to hike from Albania to Slovenia alone this summer – were met with looks of astonishment. Honestly, I think a few people simply didn’t believe us.

Our steadfast resolve helped us push past more than just stray dogs and naysayers. A couple of kilometers before Barice, we started hearing gunshots coming from the hills we were headed for. The Outdoor Active information told us that this was a sportshooting area, but that if we stuck to the trail we would be fine. But in Bosnia, rules can change without everyone being notified. We semi-confidently continued along the path, gunshots getting louder, when we saw a man up ahead waving at us. We stopped and I shouted “can we go?” and he yelled back “its up to you!” We walked a few more paces and saw shooting targets behind a hill on the left – we were literally about to walk into the line of fire! The man ducked and ran to us, laughing, and explained that this was now a forbidden zone on weekends, and that we’d have to stick to the asphalt road to go around the area. This added a couple kilometers to our trip, but on the plus side we got additional amazing views of Sarajevo.

An hour or two later, we took a break at Mountain House Cavljak, a waypoint along this hike and a great place to have a drink, sit in the sun and enjoy a nice breeze and a view.

Shortly after that, the track left the main road, veering right onto a gravel path through alpine farmland. This part was more charming and beautiful than I could have possibly imagined; I felt as though I had strayed into a fairytale or one of the fantasy novels I used to read when I was a child… perhaps Narnia, or the Wind in the Willows. The vision was enforced when, walking along a wooded part of the trail, we passed two men attaching logs to a pair of two big, chestnut-colored horses. Their equipment and dress in the remote setting made it seem like we had wandered centuries back in time.

We continued on in this reverie, enchanted by our surroundings and feeling at ease as the path had leveled off somewhat, most of the ascent having been completed in the morning. Dreamy, we ended up overestimating how far we had gotten, and when we passed by a particularly pleasant-looking mountain hut, we wandered in and ended up having a lengthy rakija break with two old Bosnian men, who, like many others, couldn’t believe we were planning to go to Vucja Luka on foot that afternoon.

Back on the trail, our tired legs feeling a bit wobbly from the rakija, we realized we were by no means as far as we had thought. Still, we didn’t want to give up. As we hastened across empty fields scattered with wandering cows here and there, the wind picked up and the clouds became heavy and dark, threatening rain. We were panicked as we struggled to find the trail markers that would lead us through the thick pine forest that was the next segment of the trail. Finally we did and entered the forest, but our immediate relief didn’t last long as the trees created an eerie, mystical atmosphere. The woods were spooky, their density creating silence and deepening the darkness of the gathering clouds.

The Sun emerged from behind the clouds just as we emerged from the woods, as if the weather had been purposefully playing with our minds. From there it was only one kilometer to Vukov Konak. We reached it with a mixture of relief and pride.



Vukov Konak is a guesthouse that exudes such good vibes that some guests end up staying quite a while, and the resulting sense of community and chillness that pervades the area is a perfect welcome after a long day of hiking. It is a wooden cottage, built traditionally with a low-hanging roof, rustic stone floor and homey touches that couldn’t be more authentic. The ground floor has a charmingly cluttered bar and a dining room with hand-hewn wooden tables and benches; bedrooms are on the upper floor. Outside is a large barbeque with a picnic table, where a group of people was having beers when we arrived. Some nettle soup, uštipci and a šljivovica (plum rakija) later, the soreness in my legs was the last thing on my mind and the tribulations of the day seemed like a walk in the park.

There’s something so satisfying about leaving your house in downtown Sarajevo on foot, climbing out of the city through the hills that shape Sarajevo valley, and hiking for hours through mountain pastures and pine forests all the way to a remote house where a warm meal and good company is waiting for you as the sun begins to set.

Surreal might be a better word to describe it.

The first few km’s hiking from Izvor Kupe are nice, then I hit another paved forest road. The thing goes on and on and on. Endless asphalt. Endless turns. Endless forest. In the heat of the day. There is zero traffic, so I listen to some upbeat music on my phone. Then this road hits a bigger road. Again endless asphalt, topped with cars. Oh what joy is hiking out here.

At the convenient store in Crni Lug I buy myself an ice cream, soda pop and a bag of crisps. Bread has sold out at the end of the day. I then continue hiking to the entrance of Risjnak NP. The hotel is closed due to renovation, the restaurant is open (including WiFi, yeah!). Since camping (or bivouac and hitting bears, see sign on entrance ticket) isn’t allowed, I stayed at a sobre (room) just down the road.

Running up to Schlosserov dom
I’m in a shower, wearing my cloths and backpack. It’s raining, cats and dogs, and frogs and the whole arch of Noah…The hike up the mountain to the hut is a nice one, I did not see of lot of though. At the dom they’re only serving beansoup, only beansoup sounds delicious to me!

It doesn’t stop raining, so after waiting for a while I hit the trail again. That evening I arrive soaking wet at dom Lepenica – a little off-trail. This hut is only open in the weekends, but I guess it’s ok if I use the garden. It’s got pick-nick tables, a stream running next to it and a campfire area (don’t use the wood that’s laying in the garden, that’s meant for heating and cooking).


Bushwhacking, again

A few km’s after leaving the dom and back on the Dinarica, it’s obvious this trail doesn’t get used a lot. At a some points it’s pretty OK hiking, at other points I’m up to my chest in the bushes, the nasty, stinging ones. At again another point I’m even up to my head in the bushes, yeah that was fun!
After passing over the A6 highway I was done with the bushwhacking. I found an old unused road and hiked to Fužine.

Fužine
In the small town of Fužine the lady of the tourist office helped me find a place to stay – a nice and quite hostel (a group of Buddhists were heaving a silence retreat). The convenient store is, again, well stocked for buying resupply on the go and there’s even free WiFi in the town centre. Tomorrow I’m taking a zero. My photo camera is broken and I’m taking a bus to Rijeka to buy a new one.

More photos on Instagram. This blog has blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

These parts of the Via Dinarica are not yet ready for hikers – in my opinion…
Leaving Prezid was a pleasant hike, through rural Croatia; small villages with beautiful fields and gardens full of flowers and vegetables. Shortly after Goraci the trail needs maintenance; a lot of trees were blown. After searching and trying for a while I returned to the road, skipped Ćabar and hiked over the paved road to Tršće. After I bought snacks and a soda at the convenient store I hiked back to the trail. Soon it lead through forestry area. Paths were missing, new ones were created… It was kind of a messy hike. I spent the night at this amazing church in the middle of the woods.

The next morning a trail was nowhere to be found. I ended up bushwacking for 2 km, at the end I was up to my chest in plants and weeds…
The next part of the trail leading to Izvor Kupe was easy to be missed; again severely overgrown (see photo above, do you spot the marker?). I took a paved road to the entrance of Risjnak NP. Here there was a note hanging, telling that this trail is closed and people are advised to take the paved road.

Izvor Kupe, the spring of the river Kupe, reminded me of little Crater Lake along the PCT with it’s clear blue water. A few km’s after leaving Izvor Kupe, again paved roads all the way to the other part of Risjnak NP (part of stage 5). After this hike my legs are burning from the sun, the scratching of the bushes and hiking on the paved roads. Ouch! Out of a 28km hike, 2 were bushwhacking, 4 were hiking trails and 24 were paved roads

More photos on Instagram. This blog has been written on trail by Claire Leenen.

A few weeks ago while I was still in Amsterdam, I saw a post on the Terra Dinarica Facebook page about a guesthouse named Vukov Konak. They were looking for volunteers to help them during the summer season. Of course my plan was (and still is) to hike the White Trail, but I couldn’t help clicking and scrolling down Vukov Konaks page. When I came across a video that showed a little concert in their cosy wooden living room, I knew I had to go and find that place. If a video post on Facebook can touch me, who knows what can happen in real life.

So I start searching “how to get to Vukov Konak” and found out that it was only a one-day-hike from Sarajevo. Terra Dinarica made it even easier with the tour “Hiking from Sarajevo to Vucja Luka” they created in Outdooractive. This tour is part of the Via Dinarica Green Trail which will be finished soon. I could download the GPS track and print the map with descriptions. Een kind kan de was doen, is wat we would say in The Netherlands. It means that the job can be done even by a child…

When I told Maggie, a girl from the US who works for Terra Dinarica, about my plan to hike to Vukov Konak, she immediately decided to join me. Thrilled and excited we met at Vijećnica, the starting point in middle of Sarajevo. Maggie printed out the description of the route and I brought my new GPS device. Besides spending the day in the mountains, for me it was also about getting used to use a GPS while hiking. I’m easily distracted by thoughts, conversations and of course by nature. Which is all right and I enjoy that, but I have to prepare myself for this summer. On the Via Dinarica it will be necessary to have some navigation skills and be focussed. Although a GPS makes it a whole lot easier, it is quiet some work to figure out how that thing works. With this hike I could check and test everything I’ve learned so far.

Cheerful chatting we started to climbed our way out of the city centre towards the yellow fortress. There we found the first trail markers that led us through the labyrinth of small streets and steep stairs. Although there were quiet a lot of stray dogs, we safely reached the first viewing point where we could fill our water bottles. My GPS told us that we were still on the right track, our green line perfectly matched the purple line on the screen. Maggie called Vukov Konak to check if they were still open by the time that we would arrive. If we would keep on going like we did, it should doable to be there at 5PM. Confident and optimistic we continued.

The description said that during the next part of the trail we had to make sure that we would stay on the paths, because of the sport shooting area we were about to cross. While walking on that path we heard several shots, but weren’t aware of the fact that bullets don’t care about hiking trails or hikers. When the shots became louder and a man started to wave at us, we realised that sport shooters also don’t care about trails or hikers. The man told us that this area is forbidden for hikers during the weekend and we had to make a detour along the road if we didn’t want to risk our lives…

A bit bummed out we turned around and headed back to the road. Suddenly a car stopped right in front of us, for a second I thought of asking for a ride to our next exit into the forest. But we didn’t. A girl with dyed red hair got out of the car and started to ask us some questions. I still don’t speak or understand Bosnian, so I let Maggie do the talking. The red haired girl explained that she was drunk… and wanted us to take a picture of her and her boyfriend with the amazing city view. That was the good thing about the detour, the spectacular views and crazy passer-by’s.

In Čavljak we stopped for a coffee at the mountain lodge where some man were playing cards, smoking and drinking beer. When they noticed the FiveFinger shoes I was wearing, their card play suddenly didn’t seem that important anymore. They invited us to stay for a drink, but we explained that we were on our way to Vukov Konak which was still quite a long way to go. Like all the other people we would meet along the way they started to warn us that it was really really far. Most people even said it was irresponsible to go all the way up there with just the two of us.

At that time we were still optimistic that we could make it, we did most of the climbing and had already done one third of the tour. How hard could it be? We had all day and it was only 20 kilometres after all.

The road took us to a forest, finally we could leave the asphalt and feel the earth under our feet. This was absolutely the most lovely scenery I’ve seen so far. Indescribable green grass, wide views and cute wooden huts. Although there were several refreshment stops, it wasn’t crowded or spoiled by people. In fact, because of these little bars there was a special vibe, all kinds of people who were enjoying just as much as we did. Before we knew it, we sat down for another break. This time we did accept an invitation of two beer drinking men and got ourselves a rakija before we went on.

Unfortunately we discovered that we were not quite as far as we thought we were, which meant that we still had halfway to go. My legs didn’t agree on the rakija pauza and started to complain. At the same time, the sun disappeared behind dark grey clouds and all of the sudden there were no trail markers anymore. On the GPS we could see that we were off the purple line, but we couldn’t find a path that led us back. Add the worries of all the people we met during the day ánd dense, eerie forest that lied in front of us… I seriously started to doubt if it was wise to go on. Maybe we had been a bit naive and a bit too slow after all. I didn’t want to get lost in that dark forest full of animals I was still a bit afraid of.

Going back to the last trail marker we had seen didn’t make sense, because the description told us that we had to leave that dirt road and walk on the northern side of the Crepoljsko mountain towards the forest, which we did. The only option, beside going back to Sarajevo, was to walk a few metres in each direction to see where we would meet the purple line on the GPS screen. Luckily there turned out to be a very small path through the grass after all. But at this spot, a signpost would have been kind of welcome.

Once we finally got back on track we stepped up our pace a little, but still not in hurry though. Maggie was at this point a bit more positive than I was. Maybe because she likes the forests which is giving me the creeps. I prefer mountain landscapes with wide views. But I have to admit that it was a kind of special feeling to be all alone, or just with the two of us, in that huge wild piece of nature. Our conversation turned to more serious subjects, maybe heavy but not creepy at all. It was a completely different atmosphere which led to completely different emotions and feelings than the lovely green landscape only a few hours ago did. I love to be on my own, but during this hike, the fact that we were together and did it together, added something what couldn’t be experienced by being all alone. And I’m very grateful for that. Although it was just a day-hike and I’ve done much more demanding tours, this hike, this day, this adventure thought me how important it is to believe in yourself.

All of the sudden the high trees made room for a great view over the hills and mountains before we took the last turn towards our destination. The threatening sky slowly disappeared and the moment we arrived at the guesthouse, the sun started to shine. At 5PM exactly we walked onto the terrace of this beautiful place surrounded by nature, right in the arm of the warm and friendly Vukov Konak crew.

Maggie had to go back to Sarajevo, but I decided to stay for the BBQ and ended up spending the night. It was a special evening with an eclectic group of people. Guests, volunteers, owners. Finns, Germans, Hungarians, an American girl, the Bosnian host and a guy from Slovenia who was there to pick up his new Finnish girlfriend. Rakija and a Finnish sausages. Bosnian coffee with Lakka (I believe it was). Stories and a campfire, music and more beer. And of course the very amusing goat with a name I forgot.

If you’re planning to hike this trail as well, (and you don’t want to get lost where we did) you can download the GPS track, maps and descriptions here on the Via Dinarica website.

This blog-post was originally published on EVAdinarica Project website.

The trail from Postojna to Mašun is like a forest highway, but with little cars. It’s a fast and OK hike. I caught quite some rain, but there were some abandoned (or emty) houses along the road. Some had patios, which I used to hide from the rain.

I got to Boardinghouse Mašun around dinner time. They’re widely known for the food they serve. Yes, the food was really good. I, however, skipped the dishes containing bear… Since it was a weekend’s day Mašun was fully booked. I asked if I could camp in the front garden and they then showed me the summer bar (a tiny shed), in which I could sleep. The next morning I heard a heavy sound, as I was walking towards Snežnik mountain. Then I saw something brown and fluffy running. It moved fast away from me and it moved like a dog (and not like a pig). Oh yeah! A bear! Lucky me!

The climb to the top of Snežnik isn’t very demanding, it’s a pleasant walk and not many hikers take the Dinarca-route. Parts of the of trail are a bit overgrown (or need maintainance).

On top there’s this very, very nice hut. It’s open in the weekends and on Sunday until four in the afternoon. Hikers can stay for the night and they serve (good!) food and drinks. If the weather is good, it’s possible to overlook the whole of Slovenia. Because it’s an easy walk up, it’s a popular hike among Slovenians (and Italians). Both in summer and in winter.

On Snežnik I met Iztok, he’s a regular visitor and loves to explore the mountain. We went to search for a geocache to put my travel-bug (Reise(ver) in. Iztok was happy to help, since this was a new discovery on the mountain. Mission accomplished: TB86F83E is on it’s way!

Through Iztok I got invited to have supper with the staf of the hut. Katia (and the other lady’s name I forgot, shame on me) are really good cooks and so friendly. They did not let me pay and sent me on the way with a home-brewed pear-schnapps and good luck charm. Thank you!
I left the Dinarica and took a shortcut to Babno Polje through the forest. Since there’s serious forestry going on, it’s not a very inspiring hike. But, it shaved off quite a few kilometers from, an also uninspiring, hike over a main road.

That evening I camped next to an English couple who were out on tour with their old school Land rover for a few weeks. They invited me for tea and a beer, to which I off course could not say ‘no’. After entering Croatia I got myself Croatian money from the ATM and bought some snacks from one of the small, but well stocked grocery stores in Prezid.

More photos on Instagram. Support my adventures and buy me a coffee, soda pop or a high calorie meal.

This blog has been written on trail.

The last 1.5 days I hiked from the Italian/Slovenian border to Predjama Castle – where the White Trail according to www.viadinarica.com starts. I mostly hiked along the Nanos plateau, which has stunning views! Too bad it has been raining a lot and when the rain stopped, mist set in. So, I actually hiked in the clouds most of the time. Yesterday, after lunch in a nice restaurant called Gostilna Tratnik in Col, I couldn’t find a side trail I wanted to take. I changed plans and ended up hiking all the way to Predjama Castle and arriving there just before night fell. I earned myself a AAA-bivouac with a view, though.

Postojna

I got to the town of Postojna early. And after buying resupplies in one of the many well-stocked grocery stores, insect repellent (six tick bites is a bit too much) and a stay in the really nice and comfortable youth hostel I’m ready for stage 1: Croatia here I come! More photos on Instagram.

Support my adventures and buy me a coffee, soda pop or a high calorie meal.

This blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

The Via Dinarica connects seven countries, and on my final day on the trail I will hike into Montenegro and climb Maglić, the highest peak of Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Day 5

Early mornings were the norm on the Via Dinarica for me, and this final day was not different. At six in the morning I was up and soon I was sitting with my friends Olja, Kenan and Tim at the breakfast table. It might be hard to imagine, but the breakfast at the Restaurant & Pension Umoljani Bjelašnica was even better than the dinner the previous evening: Local cheeses and honey, tasty warm bread, ham and marmalades – and all of it locally made. Add in a great coffee and you have the energy for a long day.



Before we would be climbing up Maglić we had a two hour car ride in front of us. I tried to nap as much as possible, but the stupendously beautiful scenery made that difficult. We drove through deep canyons next to raging rivers on narrow roads, and all of it looked just so gorgeous that one could have spent a fine day exploring little paths off the road. The views got wider & wider and after one and half hours we passed the first signs for the Sutjeska National Park, the oldest National Park in Bosnia and Herzegovina and home to a large waterfall and a primeval forest. We drove up into the park, parked the car, packed up – crampons, harness, helmet and ice axe come along – and started to hike.

The trail takes us through the forest, and soon we hike again on snow. Kenan leads the way and here and there we see the trail markers on rocks & trees, and while the ground is covered in snow it is warm and the trees have already the first green leafs. After about an hour Kenan remarks that we must be in Montenegro now, and in front of us towers Maglić.



The views are superb and we can see far into Montenegro, while we walk again over short stretches of grass & past crocuses. It does not take long and we’re again on snow, but now it’s the steep kind. We put the harnesses on, take the ice axe in hand and start off. While Kenan and Olja wear mountaineering boots I have my Arc’teryx Acrux² FL GTX Approach Shoes on, and while the crampons in my pack would fit on them I decide to go on without. The shoes have shown me on this trip that they are great on snow, so I decide I rather be fast & nimble without crampons.

After the first snow field we continue on a steep path which is secured a bit with a Via Ferrata cable in places, but the going is easy so the cable is largely ignored by us. Then we arrive at a 70° chute which is covered in snow, and here I decide it would be smart to rope up. Olja and Kenan agree, and a few minutes later I cross the chute first. After that it is again a mix of dry, steep paths and snow fields up to the summit ridge, where we arrive around three hours after we left the car.



From here it is an easy stroll to the summit of Maglić & some 20 minutes later we stand at the post and high five each other.



We put on insulation layers, get food & drinks out and take in the view while enjoying the fine weather. The warm sun makes it comfortable to sit up on the summit and we spend quite a while up there to photograph, sign the summit register and eat. I then pack up and steal away in front of Kenan and Olja to shoot a few wide angle shots of the two on the summit.



The two catch up with me, we rope up again for the descent and then it’s down, down, down. Descending snow slopes in approach shoes is possible but it is more comfortable in mountaineering boots I can now tell you. A mere 3 meters before the end of the snow slope I slip and manage to self-arrest, but the damage is done: Kenan smiles at me and lets me know that “I told you approach shoes are no good”.



After that we cross the chute again and then are going back to the car as fast as we can. We’re all hungry and thirsty – the sun has been shining the whole day again. On the way back to Sarajevo we stop at a nice road side restaurant where we eat a tasty dinner before we need to continue to Sarajevo, where we arrive late in the evening And so another fine day on the Via Dinarica went by.

Posted by Hendrik Morkel Nov 2nd, 2015 Bosnia and Herzegovina

30°C Sunshine, 3.000 m of ascent and 30 km of ridge walking – a good day on the Via Dinarica!

Day 4

After a leisurely day of hiking on snow it was time for some serious distance and ascent today. The day started at six o’clock because we hoped to avoid the 30°C heat during midday and be already in the shade of the forest up on the ridge by then.



We crossed the bridge over the Rakitnica river, which has created here one of the deepest canyons in Europe, and encountered kids on their way to the school bus and who looked at us with a smile on the face – why would someone hike here at such an early time they likely were thinking. We pass a few houses and soon are on a narrow trail which weaves through the forest, with the river always in earshot. We cross another wobbly bridge over a turquoise river, fill up our bottles at a spring and cross a meadow with a lonely hut on it before we start our ascent up to the ridge. The thermometer is already at 30°C and the sun shines from a cloudless sky on us – it’s gonna be a hot day.

We follow the steep and overgrown trail up to the ridge, and on the other side it is two shoes wide and drops several hundred meters down to the river. The view is gorgeous – we see the complete ridge which we will be hiking today in front of us. The trail slowly weaves through the shrubbery towards the Dubocani village, and at some point we reach a forest road above Dubocani. It is lush and green down there in the village, the red roofs being a stark contrast to the green meadows. Behind it is the next hill we need to climb. We follow the forest road and colourful lizards run into the undergrowth as they hear us approach, so fast that it is difficult to snap a good photo of them.



Over a soft trail of old leafs we climb the hill, refill our bottles once more at a spring next to a Shepard who tells us that his two sisters are living in Helsinki (!) and then climb further up. By the time we reach the top and start of the ridge my water bottles are empty again, and refilling them at a cistern full of death insects and dirt is somehow sub-optimal without a filter.

After a break we start our second ridge walk of the day – mostly in the hot sun, occasionally in the shade of the forest. It is so hot that I seriously question why I decided to wear the Rab Calibre Pants which were great for the snowy and coolish weather on Prenj the previous days but are way too hot for this kind of hiking. But I don’t want to hike in my boxer shorts, and so we continue, kilometer after kilometer, hour after hour, always with the turquoise Rakitnica river to our right down in the canyon.



We pass a bombed down village from the war where nowadays only Shepards life with their sheep, then climb another 400 m hill and still have many kilometers to go. I am so thirsty but don’t want to drink the “dirty” water from the cistern, but after a few hours in the heat I can’t take the thirst anymore and drink the litre in one go. We bushwhack up an hill with a 200 m drop to our right, and then finally come onto the path which will take us to Lukomir, the most remote mountain village in Bosnia and Herzegovina. I somehow am refreshed by the thought of soon being able to drink some clean water and wash my face in a cool fountain.



The trail contours the mountain and after a bend we can see the minaret of the Mosque of Lukomir up ahead, and the sound of a cool stream is echoing from the hills. We walk through the old, traditional village and head for the fountain, where I gulp down a litre of cold water in one go. After that Kenan and I sit down in the Café and I enjoy a tasty coffee, while we wait for our ride to the nearby Restaurant & Pension Umoljani Bjelašnica. The trail to the B&B would have been short and easy Kenan tells me, but after a 30 km day with over 3.000 m of ascent and plenty of heat I am so knackered that I am happy to drive in the car there. As we arrive late in the evening we are welcomed by the owner who cooks us a tasty dinner – all ingredients are locally sourced. Full and happy I stumble to my soft bed, put my alarm on for another 6 o’clock alpine start, and fall soundly asleep.



The defining memory of the day is not the heat, the sun, the fine hiking, the cold fountain in Lukomir, the old huts and tasty Bosnian coffee or even the utterly delicious food in the evening, no, it is the smell of Herzegovina that I was breathing in and out during the early morning. The dry, sweet and warm smell is a mix of the earth, flowers, water and trees of the region and is so beautiful, that it alone would be a reason for me to hike that section again.

Posted by Hendrik Morkel Oct 20th, 2015 Bosnia and Herzegovina, Dinaric Alps, Via Dinarica
Day 5 – Next stage – Hiking Sutjeska National Park

After getting lost on the Via Dinarica the previous day, today we had a superb blue-bird day with wide views, wall-to-wall sunshine and nice snowy trails.

Day 3

We spend the night in the wonderful Vrutak hut, and having decided the day before that we won’t climb Otiš because of the wintery conditions we could sleep in and take it easy. The Vrutak Hut really was great, a cozy hut with plenty of space for six or more mountaineers or hikers. You’ll need to get a key to sleep in it, but outside there would have been plenty of good spots for a UltaMid or similar.



After we packed up our light packs it was time to go on. We climbed the snoy slopes till the pass and then took a left. The sun was shining warm and nice on us, but the cold wind meant we wore our hardshells to stay warm.

But the views today?

They were superb. We took it easy and were in no rush, because we skipped the seven to eight hour climbing adventure we could walk in peace and enjoy the views.



We had a relaxed lunch at the nice Jezerce Mountain Hut, which like all the other mountain huts had been build by hand, from materials which horse and human had carried up the mountain.



After a few more hours of walking underneath beautiful mountain tops and on snow we reached greeen meadows which were full of flowers.

But the snow remained a companion – funnily enough the forests were free of snow but the trails still covered in half a meter of snow here and there.

After some bushwacking through the forest – the trail was over-grown – we reached a nice grassy trail through pretty meadows. It was still early afternoon as we reached the forest road, where we met Edin, a friend of my Guide Kenan, who gave us a lift to the Vila Sunce where we would spend the night. We had a wee stop at an Café at the shore of the Boračko jezero Lake and then had a look at the Rakitnica river, which would be ideal for packrafting. Alas, I didn’t bring my packraft – maybe the next time!



To be continued.



Posted by Hendrik Morkel Oct 15th, 2015 Bosnia and Herzegovina, Dinaric Alps, Via Dinarica
Day 4 – Next stage – Hiking Rakitnica canyon

In the first part of my Via Dinarica trip report I told you about my expectations for this hike (none). Getting lost on the trail certainly wasn’t on my list.

Day 2

“Where am I? Who is up at this hour where the world doesn’t exist yet?”

Ah ja, I’m at the Medjuprenje Mountain Hut, up on Prenj, on the Via Dinarica in Bosnia and Herzegovina. My name is Hendrik and that tiny backpack is mine. Yeah, systems booting, coffee required before we can get up and start hiking.

Black gold is served steaming hot by Kenan’s friends & again I ponder about the weight & taste benefits of carrying real coffee to the mountains. Also the breakfast Kenan has for me is great: Joghurt & Müsli, where the yoghurt is dehydrated and stirred up by adding water. Good stuff, and after everything is eaten and packed up we leave the hut and move up into the fog.



The trail is well marked and takes us through trees which are ready for spring, but yet hold back their green leafs. The higher we get the lower the vegetation becomes and the shorter the view. But Prenj, the mountain we’re on, is Kenan’s favourite and he knows it well. We follow markers and cairns, bushwack through the shrubbery and then take a “Shortcut”. I love shortcuts, especially in this weather.



Ah no, not here. Lets go that way.

Grey & white & grey

Can you see where we are?

Nope, don’t you have a compass?

Ah yeah, true!

Alright, this way.

At one point we dropped down a bit in elevation and ended up ascending an 60°+ snow slope, without crampons or ice axes, in approach shoes. To say I was a bit freaked out would be putting it kindly, as underneath me it went down a couple of hundred meters and a slip would have ended in a coffin. But hey. Type 2 fun. Makes for a good story right now, doesn’t it?

Kenan navigated us just great back to the track, and then it was smooth hiking over snow fields and talus. After a while Kenan knew exactly where we were and started again telling me the names of the summits that surrounded us as we walked down on a high plateau. Snow disappeared, the brown grass trail being pierced by purple crocuses and slowly turning to brown dirt to green meadows.



We traverse the high plateau and the troubles of getting a bit lost earlier are forgotten. We’re set to meet Tim and the Terra Dinarica Team as well as some guests from the USA down in the valley, and are relieved to see that we’re the first to the meeting point.

After walking mostly on snow the day before and this morning it is nice to have green grass and sunshine. We drop our packs, I get out of my shoes, and we walk around in the valley, towards the others who are just arriving. Food is shared, photos are snapped, and the beauty around us is celebrated by long, lonely stares, “Ahhh”s and “Ohhh”s and “Wow”s. And it is pretty, this valley. Otiš and Zelena Glava stand proudly at the end of the valley, a miniature Fitz Roy Range. We did plan to climb Otiš the next day, but seeing it is in full alpine conditions and our lack of alpine gear makes me decide against an ascent. I also wasn’t up for a 14 hour day, though it certainly would have made a great story & experience. So we will just hike comfortably across Prenj and arrive early at our destination the next day – a good decision as we’d see the tomorrow.



After a lengthy late lunch we part with our friends and head back up the mountain, though our destination is not far. The Vrutak hut is less than 30 minutes up from the valley and luxurious hut by any standard. Clean at a prime location its nice to know we will sleep in such a nice hut tonight. I grab my tripod and head out to photograph the sunset and blue hour while Kenan prepares our dinner.



With a big smile I come back in after the sun is gone and the first stars dot the sky. Kenan has prepared a delicious goulash, and I share a Finnish dessert with him to celebrate this adventurous day. We sit for a while and talk, but both of us are tired and soon turn in. Tomorrow would be “easy and relaxed”…

Posted by Hendrik Morkel Sep 7th, 2015 Bosnia and Herzegovina
Day 3 – Next stage – Hiking to Boracko lake

Is it the idea of connecting seven countries via humanities simplest activity, walking? Or something else? Reason enough for me to pack my backpack, book a flight to Sarajevo and investigate.

“What are your expectations of this trip?” Tim asked me after he picked me up at the airport in Sarajevo. “Well”, I started, “I don’t have any. I never expect anything when I go on a research trip, and let the region show me what it has to offer. It’s only fair and more adventurous, too.” But Bosnia and Herzegovina has impressed me, very positively. It’s a beautiful country with warm, welcoming people, delicious food, and the views are quite decent, too. In the following series of trip reports I’ll walk you through the Bosnia & Herzegovina part of the Via Dinarica Trail, and will answer questions in the final post where I also will give more information on the trail.



Sarajevo

“Coffee?” Sure. As an European Finn I seldom say no to coffee, and the coffee in Bosnia & Herzegovina is superb, especially when brewed in the traditional way. Besides, I was up since 4 am and already had three different flights so something to keep me awake in the sweltering heat of this bustling city was always welcome. We had good coffee and then a stroll through the old part of Sarajevo, which was gorgeous with small, narrow streets lined with stalls, open air Cafés, Restaurants where delicious smells wafted from the open windows, and lots of people. Mosques stood next to Churches, and the peaceful co-existence of the religions in this country is certainly something the world could learn.

Later in the afternoon I meet the rest of the Terra Dinarica team, Olja, Stefan and Kenan, who would be my Guide over the next five days. We had a tasty dinner high above Sarajevo, before Kenan dropped me off at my Hostel for the night. “Pick up is at 5 am” he said with a smile, and so I turned in after a quick shower to get some sleep before the Alarm would wake me up yet again so early.

Risovac to Diva Grabovica

This 27,6 km section started at a ski slope a couple of hours drive south west of Sarajevo. Already on the way there we passed with the car scenery which would make any backpacker and climber very happy indeed, with a Mini El Cap and lush, green valleys which would make for fine hiking. Here at the Risovac ski centre Kenan and me shoulder our backpacks, said bye to Tim who’d meet us at the other side, and set off.



We quickly reach the top of the ski slope and turned into the forest, where patches of snow still lined the trail. It didn’t take us long to be so high that the trail was under the snow, and I was pondering if my Arc’teryx Acrux² FL GTX shoes would be up to the task (They were, and great on the snow indeed). Where the trail skirts the mountain on the south/ west side, the snow was happily gone, but also walking on the snow was fine – it was still fairly compact with just a thin, mushy layer on top which gave good grip.

The weather was great – so warm that I quickly shed layers and hiked in my T-Shirt. Kenan tells me about the mountain we traverse, the sights, where the Via Dinarica passes here and local lore. He’s also a good model and doesn’t protest when I let him walk several sections twice to get the right shot, but even with all the chatting and taking photos we make good speed and soon see the summit we’re aiming for today, the Great Vilinac Summit. The trail towards it sneaks through patches of low-growing shrubbery, and spring crocuses are piercing their white and violet heads already through the ground there where the snow has melted.

The summit is snow-free and after signing the summit book we sit and have a drink. The view is fantastic and we’re lucky with the weather. But we arranged to have lunch at a mountain hut a bit further along the trail, and so we soon shoulder our light packs again and head onwards to the Tise Mountain Hut. It’s a bit off the trail and we descent for ten minutes, but already from a distance it looks like it is closed. As we stand in front of the locked doors we’re certain that we won’t be eating lunch here, a good thing we have some snacks with us and that the bench and table have a scenic view to enjoy. We go for a look to find the water spring nearby, but it is still buried under a meter of snow, and so we just continue.



We follow the trailmarkers – a red circle with a white dot in the middle – for a while, until we’re back on the snow. While it allows us to make short-cuts it’s also a bit more strenuous to walk on it, and of course it also soaks your shoes and socks. But it’s warm & sunny, so not a problem, merely a slight inconvenience. We’re high up and descent and ascend just a little for several kilometres, until it is time for the big 1.600 m descent to the Diva Grabovica valley. The views which open up before us are breath-taking, but you have to stop to enjoy then, as the descent is steep on a trail which is often just a mere foot wide, if it’s not entirely covered under the snow.



Ahead of us we also can see Prenj, the mountain range we will be traversing in the next two days. Soon enough we reach the tree line and lush green beech trees with fresh, young leaves make the walking in the warm weather more pleasant. From afar we already saw a rustic cabin – the former Kings Hunting Cabin – and we made a little detour to visit it. It was pretty from the outside, with wooden shingles on the face of the building, but the inside was mouldy, dark and not welcoming. Also the garbage which was left wasn’t a nice sight, and so we continued further down.



We heard voices already further up the mountain, and as we happened on the 2nd hut – which was in much better shape – we meet Tim and friends of Kenan, who did the Evil’s Creek Route (scroll down to see their photos!), a trail which has some climbing along steel wires (a bit like like a Via Ferrata) and were now also on the way back down. We decided to go check out the Look out point and have a cup of coffee all together, and it was a nice place to rest and drink some good Bosnian coffee.

On the way to the valley the trail soon became a gorgeous green tunnel which smelled so wonderful, it was unbelievable. Colourful flowers, buzzing insects, colourful butterflies and bubbling wells we found the further we descended the trail, and as we finally broke out of the dense green forest a magnificent panorama opened up before us. A colourful little meadow stood in full flowers, while the sun was hiding behind big, dramatic grey clouds, throwing a few rays on the mountains we just left behind. It was such a perfect place that I’d loved to have put my tarp up right there, but we still had a few hundred meters to descent and move onwards, so we left the meadow behind and hiked on.



At the car we threw our packs into the car and drove towards the next Restaurant, where we enjoyed a dinner of lamb and a local beer before Tim brought us to Prenj. It was night as we arrived the start of the trail, and after a quick repack for the next two days we set off. I was completely destroyed as we started to hike, but pushed on. While I was planning to sleep in my bivy outside instead of the Medjuprenje Mountain Hut where we were headed, after I saw a few Scorpions on the trail and Kenan told me about the Black Widows Spiders which can be encountered here I decided that the hut it would be. It was close to 23 o’clock as we stumbled into the Medjuprenje Mountain Hut, where other friends of Kenan right away offered us a Rakija, and after a zip of this tasty fruit brandy I headed up to roll out my quilt and call it a night. To be continued.

Blog by Hendrik Morkel Jul 2nd, 2015 Bosnia and Herzegovina
Day 2 – Next stage – Hiking mountain Prenj

The Via Dinarica White Trail finds its way through the mountains of the Dinaric Alps. It crosses the highest peaks of every country and Maja Jezercë in Albania is the last in row.

I walk the other way around and started in Valbona. Maja Jezercë would be my first peak to climb. It’s a quite demanding one, especially the south-east approach. This time of the year there is still a lot of snow and the weather is kind of unpredictable.

Will I be able to do it? That question has been on my mind for days now. Is it wise to do it? Alone, on Vibram FiveFingers, with a very heavy backpack in the first week of hiking..

Jep, only 5K

Many people advised me to skip Jezercë. It would be too hard to find my way and the conditions are not good. It would be dangerous if I would try it on my own. Are they really right, or just afraid?

Ok, I promised myself not to do steep snow-slopes and decided to find another route around Jezercë. By doing that, I could add useful information for other Via Dinarica hikers who are not really into climbing all the peaks. The most obvious alternative would be to follow the Peaks of the Balkan trail from Thethi to Vuthaj (Vusanje). That one goes straight into the valley after the Peja pass, but it seemed a bit of an too easy option. After a closer look on the map, there turned out to be a way in between. A partially marked trail that goes up to the lakes, Buni i Jezercës, north of Maja Jezercë. Perfect. A little extra climbing, lakes and a spectacular view. I had a plan!

Up there is Maja Jezercë

During the first day on the trail, I bumped into group of Greek hikers from Thessaloniki who were about to have lunch in a cuet little wooden bar in Pragami. They invited me in and ordered a salad for me. Although it didn’t feel like I deserved that, because I just started hiking one hour ago, I couldn’t refuse. They insisted on sharing the table with them which was a very cheerful start of the day.

Lunch at Rrogami!

Their plan was to climb Maja Jezercë the next day. “Why don’t you come with us?” Uhhhh… “I don’t have the right gear.” “We have that” “But I can’t do it on my FiveFingers.” “Alexandra! Do you have a exyra pair of shoes?” How could I possibly end up in this situation. I finally made up my mind NOT to go to the peak, then these people came along. I have to confess that it was a relief that there were no proper shoes for me. Although I try to be flexible, I had a hard time to switch. Somehow I didn’t want to climb Maja Jezercë anymore. It was not about concurring a mountain, but about the experience of being there. And I had a great plan B.

Taking it easy! Wow wow wow this is the Thethi National Park!

On the third day, (yes, I took my time) Maja Jezercë finally appeared. Hmm, it doesn’t look that difficult. One more look on the map, but I made up my mind. It’s not worth the risk. I ignored the grey trail on my GPS that turned right towards the peak and went on to the Peja pass. A breathtaking view on the Thethi valley and an impressive karst landscape on the other side. Wow!

The first day I met a few “Peaks of the Balkan” hikers, mostly between Valbona and Thethi. But here I was all alone. Just me and the mountains. And clouds..

Although it was still morning, it started to get darker and the clouds seem to rise up from all directions towards me. “If the clouds are coming in, you have to go down.” is what a guide I met earlier told me. Hmm, I didn’t want to go down. I wanted to see the lakes, so politely I asked the sun to come back.

Albanian bunker in the valley to Montenegro after the Peja pass

Well, if it’s just clouds, it will be OK. As long as there is no thunder storm. I slowly continued, trying to ignore the strong wind and fact that it was getting colder. “I’m in the mountains, it can’t be sunny all the time…” I thought. A little bit of rain won’t hurt me.

But I still had to go up another 600 meters, right into these dark clouds. On moments like this I do wish that there would be someone else to discuss what to do. It would be easier. But I had to make a decision. I didn’t want to let myself blown of a mountain, but I also didn’t want to let my fears control the situation.

What to do next?

I waited and looked at the sky. Took another break, filled my bottle with water. Hesitated and waited a bit more. At the junction I gave it a go and took the path that traversed along the mountain, parallel to the Peaks of the Balkans trail, but a bit higher. I could easily go back. Suddenly a strong wind came around the corner and almost knocked me off my feet. “OK, that’s it, this doesn’t feel good.” I was too insecure. Maybe it would have been a piece of cake, but I was afraid. I could still see the other trail below me, so I scrambled down the grassy stony hill until I was back in the valley. No Maja Jezercë, no Buni i Jezercës for me. Today.

For a minute (or actually an hour) I thought of camping in the valley and wait what the weather would be like the next day. Arhgg, it’s so hard to make a choice. I felt so stupid, skipping the highest part. On the other hand, it would be even more stupid to continue going up while the weather was getting worse every minute.

Walking through the valley, leaving Jezercë behind…

I tried to let go of it all and went down. A long way down, Vuthaj was much further than I expected. My feet were tired and my moral was down. It felt like I lost the battle, however I actually won by not letting my pride get in the way. I tried to tell myself that, but I couldn’t feel it yet.

Vuthaj was still another 2,5 hour and I wasn’t sure if I could camp there. On my GPS a saw an Alpine hut named Zastan which was again a bit up, but much closer. This time I didn’t need much time to decide and started to walk up on the 4 wheel drive track.

Alpine hut Zastan

FiveFingers in the disappeared lake, Liqeni i Gjeshtarës

Once I saw the hut in the middle of an open space between high beautiful steep mountains, I could feel the smile on my face coming back. Optimistic with renewed energy I crossed the field and knocked on the door. Two women and a little boy were surprised to see a hiker. They looked at me if as I must be crazy or lost, but started to laugh as soon as they saw my shoes.

“Are you alone?” “Yes.” “No friends?” “Not here.” “Not coming? ” “No, not today.” “Why?” “Well, because. ..” “Ok, you come in.” The minute I entered the door, heavy rain covered the valley with a thick grey curtain. Showers, thunders and lightning went on for the rest of the afternoon, evening and night. Impressive how strong nature can be. And impressive how excellent my timing was.

They gave me a room, one they didn’t use. I found out that a Alpine hut isn’t the same as a Mountaineering hut. Here this family lives during the summer months with their sheep and cows. It was a very minimalistic, old windy building. I had to sleep on the flour, the window was broken and it was dirty, but it was perfect. I was still in the middle of the mountains and suddenly a guest in a rural shepherds household.

I love sheeeep!

“Come here for coffee.” The lady said, next minute I sat in their warm cozy living/bedroom sipping a cup of Turkish coffee. We talked about their life and mine. About why I’m alone “No good, must be together”. I tried to explain that it is a choice, it makes my adventure the way it is and I love it.

Maybe people here don’t understand me, but they give me a friendly, warm welcome. And a cup of coffee :). They invite me in, let me stay and share their stories with me. Meeting people, sitting down with them is exactly what it is about for me. This is worth so much more than climbing a peak of a high mountain. This is what gets me high ;-).

Visit my page for more stories, photos, news...:)

When Kenan, Elma and Benjo left their Prokletian giant they headed towards Komovi, the missing link between the larger than life peaks of the Prokletije and Biogradska and Durmitor NP’s. On google maps mostly bike trails will appear in Andrijevici municipality to the northwest of Prokletije National Park. This often overlooked swath of mother nature not only has some excellent hiking but is more off the beaten track than some of the isolated peaks of the Prokletije. Not only do they connect Montenegro’s most precious protected areas…but, as they team would find out, this section of the trip would follow them all the way to the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina.

After a long day in the Prokletije the team arrived in the middle of nowhere and in the dark. The eventually found the village of Konjuhe and entered a hole-in-the-wall cafe. When they entered the cafe the handful of beer drinking, chain smoking men went silent. They stared. A few guarded inquiries as to who they were and what they were doing there followed. The owner, Branislav Babovic, seemed surprised when Kenan said ‘we’re from Sarajevo and we’re hear to help promote the hiking areas in Montenegro.’ That was the initial ice-breaker. Kenan continued that they were looking for a place to spend the night. The cafe owner offered them the incomplete concrete floor above the establishment. After a quick peek, Elma declined. They would pitch a tent in the garden.



They sat down and had beers. And then a few more. Then the lights went out. What does one do when the lights go out? Nothing much. So they drank some more and joined the card game. Brane and Kenan hit it off. After several hours he refused to let them sleep in the garden. Instead he brought them to his family home where they slept in comfortable beds and had a hardy breakfast the next morning. The ice caps had turned to global warming. It was like they were long lost cousins. Before they left he made sure they knew where to go and who to look for before as they met up with their Montenegro Explorer guide Dusko Raketic. A new journey would begin but it would all be connected naturally by this unexpected encounter.

One connection led to another and this little known corner of northern Montenegro had become more like a family reunion rather than a discovery trek. Although the hike to Carine, guided by the friendly and competent law student/mountain guide Dusko, was more tame than the intimidating peak of the Prokletije, the team found it no less charming. The highlands were a welcome change, with more forest and greenery than they had previously experienced. It was still a hardy hike and a first for both Kenan and Elma in this pocket of Montenegro. Dusko would be their worthy guide all the way to Durmitor. More adventure talk to come.